The first thing that strikes me at La Capannina is a sense of comfort. It is not the homely comfort of a family-owned cafeterria seating less than 20 people or the lose-yourself-in-the-crowd comfort of a popular spot packed with undemanding jubilant guests. La Capannina exudes the understated classiness of those who need not show off their sophistication or fine dining tastes; they are a matter of lifestyle, not for show. The open mini-kitchen where the fresh pasta is prepared in guests’ view, the glass case with sinful sweets, the crisp white tablecloths softened, in one of the dining areas, by bamboo chairs, the antique prints gracing the walls, the unmistakeable regulars, and the flood of daylight all make a statement of casual elegance. Even the striking – an unobstructed view of the Nastional Assembly and Alexander Nevski cathedral – begins to seem like something to be taken for granted.

But, if you are a fan of cucina italiana, save your excitement for the moment you leaf through the menu and the wine list. From a rich selection of reds, representing eight of Italy’s wine regions and some gems from France and Chile, I chose one from Toscana,  Montesodi Chinati Rufina 2001 by Marchesi de Frescobaldi (50 leva), whose memorable rich aroma is still fermenting somewhere in the oak barrels of my mind.

When attractive options begin to overwhelm you, try to order something unique, something traditional, and something you personally love. Olives all’Ascolana, stuffed with three types of meat, proscioutto crudo and Parmigiano, then lightly breaded and fried, and served on a bed of green salad and artichoke definitely met my criteria for unique, having appeared on a menu for the first time in my experience. The six plum-sized olives (16 leva) arrived hot off the stove and I barely gave them a chance to cool off before devouring them. Miraculously, each flavour had preserved its integrity while contributing to a fine mix.         

Because to take pasta away from Italian cuisine would be to remove its heart, one should try one of La Capannina’s past dishes at least once. The tagliolini with Buletes Edible, cherry tomatoes and prawns (20 leva) served the restaurant’s reputation well. The pasta itself could inspire you to never again buy its far-removed relative that comes in a box and learn to make the real thing at home, generously cracking egg after egg in the dough. The chef must have known it would be delicious just sprinkled with olive oil, because the dish did not come drowned in a heavy sauce, just a light mixture of tomatoes, mushrooms and prawns.

My personal indulgence comes in the form of lamb fillet with black pepper, Buletes Edible, raisins and onion (29 leva). The meat is low-heat treated in a vacuum, then “sealed” at a very high-temperature. The lamb is so tender it near-vanishes, but has preserved its pink colour. The sweet-and-salty sauce compliments it finely. It is definitely the star of a meal that captures the mood of La Capannina’s menu.

At the heart of town and neighbouring with the Radisson Hotel, La Capannina  is a place to taste the best of Italy – fresh products, home-made pastas, Italian cheeses and meats, and sumptuous wines.

La Capannina
9 Narodno Sabranie Sq, Sofia
For reservations: +359 2 980 44 38
Working hours: Mon–Sun, 12pm to midnight