Waking up, the summer sun shining through our bedroom window, feeling refreshed and ready to go after a carbohydrate-filled dinner and an early night in, we slowly get out of bed. That’s when it hits, the aches and pains of the previous two days spent hiking through Rila National Park. And today, the last in our weekend break from Sofia, is the trek up to Mount Musala, the highest peak in the Balkan peninsula, standing at 2925m.

We arrived at our home away from home, Rila Lodge Guest House in Dospei, only minutes from Samokov and 10km from Borovets, on a Thursday night. It is a highly recommended bed and breakfast for weekend breaks all year round, and a perfect base for the subsequent days of trekking…but that is another story.

The first day consisted of a trek, about six hours, to Mt Malyovitsa, 2729m, starting from Maliovitsa Hotel, near the entrance to Rila National Park, and back. The second day, another six-hour-plus trek, started at Vada, taking us through Sedemte Ezera, 2535m, the Seven Lakes.

Opening our Rila Mountain map, a translated English/German map purchased at Maliovitsa Hotel for 5.40 leva, my partner and I decided to tackle the Mt Musala summit starting from a trek marked opposite Beli Iskar River, about a 25-minute drive down a narrow, single-lane road from Beli Iskar. The drive alongside the river and Rila forests is a relaxing, picturesque one, for the passenger that is. The driver has the arduous task of manoeuvering the car throughout the copious potholes in the road and between the active oncoming traffic. We were both taken aback, though not surprised, by the condition of the road. Being such a popular tourist and local attraction, with numerous walking stations and picnic areas to the side, we assumed the roads would be better maintained.

What wasn’t marked on the map, however, was the police barricade 15 minutes into the drive. A small “politsiya” hut and barrier gate blocked the road. Although our Bulgarian is limited, we managed to work out the word, забранено – prohibited, and decided to turn around.

Our next calling point was Borovets ski resort. By the time we arrived and parked it was already 11.30am and as much as my naturally fit and eager partner would have liked to walk from the resort to the top, I persuaded him to get a return ticket for the gondola. A single ticket costs six leva, with a one-way return ticket at nine leva, and instead of a four-hour trek to Yastrebets, 2369m, the gondola only takes 35 minutes, well worth the money.

The signposts, located about every two kilometres showing a map of various trek options, are weatherworn and some had been dislodged completely from the posts. But the treks were palpable, and along the way, every 10m or so, either a rock or a post with colored arrows would mark the way – red for walks, blue for lakes. With the help of our Rila Mountain map, we worked out which trek we’d take.

The first leg of the walk is surprisingly flat, taking you to Musala lodge. It is the perfect part of the trek to truly take in the wonders of the Balkans. The greenery and fresh pine air is a wonderful change from the city smog. From here, it’s hard to believe you’re less than three hours away.

According to some internet sites, and from what we could make out on the signs, this walk will take you one hour. However, if you’re a keen mountaineer, it will only take about 40 minutes. This is the case with most of the estimated times, obviously aimed at the average walker, not the fitness extremist. In saying that, during winter it would take you a bit longer. On arrival, there were about 30 people sitting at the picnic tables available outside Musala lodge, enjoying hot soup, banitsa and coffee purchased from the small cafe there. Toilets along the trek are, obviously, scarce, so take this opportunity to go. If you plan to use the toilets here, take your own toilet paper…and maybe a peg.

About 50m from the lodge is a small lake. And this is where the scenery becomes even more miraculous. Forty or so wild horses were surrounding the lake. Close enough to touch them, and take a few National Geographic-worthy shots, we made our way to the start of the steep ascent. The path we took, the left of the two routes to the right of the lake, was obviously a harder choice, having only seen a handful of other trekkers, over boulders and on hands and knees, which eventually meets up with the more popular trail.

Although it is a steep walk, people of all ages and fitness levels were attempting and completing the climb. Some areas were quite steep and narrow, and there were areas still covered with snow, so a good pair of hiking boots and thermals for the top is recommended.

Once there, about an hour from the lodge for the keen and an hour and a half for the normal, you have a 360-degree view of the Balkan range. There were numerous people at the top, a cafe available, and even two tourists sunbaking. Everyone seemed in high spirits.

Although the highest point, the trek itself, if you take the gondola, was the easiest of the three days. I can’t explain the feeling you get of achieving Mt Musala’s summit, overlooking the unspoilt natural sceneries of the Balkans.

It is well worth a summer weekend away.