Greek mythology, Thracian gods, Slavic beliefs, Asian myths; it is all here in Bulgaria, incorporated in the country’s thousands of churches, monasteries and other sacred places.
Latter-day Bulgaria is a Christian Orthodox country, but its ancient history has added to Bulgarians’ spiritual beliefs a flavour to be found nowhere else. There are remains of Christian places of worship dating from the time of St Paul, such as the recently discovered site at Perperikon in the Rhodope mountains, and you can see churches as they were seen by the Crusaders and by the Soviets. Bulgaria’s entire history is reflected in its temples spread throughout the country, some hidden in thousand-year-old woods and mountains.
Visiting Bulgaria’s spiritual centres is a unique way to get to know the people and their beliefs. It is remarkable to see how the architecture has changed through the years, from the time before the Ottomans conquered Bulgaria in 1396, and in the eras afterward. Choose a route and head to the mountains and small villages that once were the cultural and spiritual centres of the country.
One of Bulgaria’s monasteries has the image of a celebrity among its brothers. It is the monastery that everyone talks about and to which all foreigners are directed: Rila monastery in Rila mountain. Rila has an unquestionable pre-eminence when it comes to monasteries in Bulgaria. Built in the 10th century, the monastery was demolished several times by enemy forces but today stands as proof of Bulgarian’s ever-vibrant spirit. Even the Ottoman sultans paid their respects to it by confirming the rights granted by the Bulgarian kings. It is open every day and monks are always ready to talk about the monastery’s rich history and secrets.
The other star on Bulgaria’s map of monasteries is Rozhen monastery in Pirin mountain. It is the only monastery restored during the first centuries of Ottoman rule which has survived in its full glory to this day. Its present-day appearance dates back to the 16th century, the history books say.
Going back to the 12th century is a wonderful experience. To do so, visit Dryanovo monastery of St Archangel Michael. It was built close to the summer residence of the then Bulgarian kings of the Assen dynasty.
The jewel in the crown is the small and cosy Troyan monastery. Art critics say that the monastery is unique for the work of the famous 19th century painter Zahari Zograf. His bold style is evident in a completely secular group portrait of the monastic brotherhood in the refectory - something highly unusual for the time. The rakiya (a traditional brandy) is the other landmark of the monastery. Once made by the monks, today Troyanska Rakiya made from plums is a classic brand.
The tour would not be complete without a visit to one of the oldest monasteries of old Bulgaria. Bachkovo monastery dates from the 11th century and stands proudly on a rock in the outskirts of the Rhodope mountains. The original architecture of the place is a reminder of the imagination of Bulgarians’ ancestors.
A sacred place for every Bulgarian is the church of the Forty Holy Martyrs in the medieval capital of Bulgaria, Veliko Turnovo. The church, previously in a terrible condition, was fully restored two years ago and is open for visitors.
It represents some of the most glorious and at the same time most tragic events in Bulgaria’s history. Today’s look of the church dates from 1230 when it was reconstructed and restored by Tsar Ivan Assen II. The reason was a great military victory by Ivan Assen II on March 22 1230 (The Day of the Martyrs), a victory that made Bulgaria a predominant power in South Eastern Europe.
Some years after the Ottomans conquered Veliko Turnovo, the church was converted into a Muslim mosque. Strangely enough, this transformation saved the church since all Christian churches in the area were destroyed during the Ottoman period (1396-1878). The church was given back the status of the church of Bulgarian kings on September 22 1908 when Knyaz Ferdinand chose it as the place to declare Bulgaria’s independence.
For those limited by time to Sofia, there is also the option of visiting some of Bulgaria’s most ancient churches. The choice is not easy but you will not want to miss the small Boyana church that has been included in Unesco list of World Heritage Sites. It is considered a herald of European Renaissance, as many guides put it.
The paintings on the wall speak of the artists’ genius. These 13th century masterpieces preceded the Renaissance in Western Europe by 200 years.
In the heart of Sofia, in the yard of the Presidency, is a treasure waiting for the visitor to discover. It is the Rotunda of St George. Built as a Roman public building in the fourth century, it was later converted into a church, a mosque and again into a church. Today it is on the Unesco list.
