For those of you who aren’t averse to trading a hotel bed for a sleeping bag under the stars, camping is an excellent way to experience Bulgaria’s Black Sea coast. We set off to explore the southeastern coast, from Sozopol down to the Turkish border, with a car, a tent, and two kids.

Sozopol
There’s nothing quite like waking up to the smell of eggs and bacon frying outside the tent. This, followed by an after breakfast swim in sparkling blue waters, just a few minutes walk away, makes for an ideal start to the day at Zlatna Ribka (Golden Fish) campsite.

Zlatna Ribka (Tel: 05514 2427) is 3km north of Sozopol, on the main road from Bourgas. Prices are fairly typical for campsites in Bulgaria: tent pitches are about five leva a night, bungalows are from 10 leva. There are also fixed tents on the site. As with most better-run campsites, it has its own shop where you can buy the basic camping staples – bread, milk, beer, instant noodles.

The site runs right down to the beach, so you are never more than a few minutes’ walk from the sea. From the beach there are views of the tree-lined coast sweeping off to the south to Sozopol and north to the Ropotamo nature reserve. As is common practice on most of Bulgaria’s beaches, you can pay about two leva for your own spot under one of the wooden thatched umbrellas. This is probably a wise option given the strength of the sun in the middle of the day, and also the fact that wooden shacks selling beer can be found on almost all of Bulgaria’s beaches, meaning a shady retreat can come in handy.

Should you tire of basking in the sun, or feel the urge to go in search of some cultural or historical diversions, Sozopol is only just down the road. This ancient town is often referred to as one of the gems of the Black Sea, and rightly so. It is split into two main parts:и и Harmanite, the ‘new town’, on the mainland; and the Old Town jutting out on the peninsula. There is a wealth of restaurants jostling to offer you fresh seafood served with fantastic sea views. There are also plenty of hotels should you want a respite from roughing it. However, as an increasingly popular spot with Bulgarians and foreigners alike, the town gets pretty busy in July and August and during the Apollonia Arts Festival, held on the first 10 days of September, so it’s a good idea to book in advance where possible.

Despite the throngs of holidaymakers, Sozopol has retained its charm and it is easy to see why the artistic and literary communities have traditionally been drawn to it, with its narrow, winding cobbled streets, national revival style buildings, stunning sea views and magical quality of light. If you don’t mind the crowds, the town is buzzing during the festival when the air sings with the sounds of pop concerts, jazz and classical music.

Down the  coast to Sinemorets
After a couple of days lounging on the beach and exploring the town, it was time to head south. Driving down the road that hugs the coast from Sozopol to Sinemorets is an exhilarating experience. It is well surfaced for a minor road, with relatively few potholes. But it is narrow, making every encounter with a car coming the other way into a game of chicken – a test of nerves to see who is going to pull over to let the other pass. The outcome of these encounters is usually determined on the general unwritten law of the road, the principle of largest goes first. That said, the scenery is truly fantastic. Low rugged cliffs descend into dazzling ocean and coves or expanses of white sand wait around every corner. People fish along the banks of the River Veleka. Green headlands snake down towards Turkey, the majority thankfully left untouched by the hand of the developers.

Many of the ‘hotels’ in places such as Kiten and Ahtopol are still used almost exclusively by employees of a particular company or factory. The campsites scattered along the coast are hit and miss; some modern, some peeling relics of a past era. But do not be discouraged; the persistent camper is sure to find something that suits their taste. Also, there is always the option of renting rooms in private houses; look for signs on houses, or ask at the tourist bureau or bus station.

We played it safe on our first night south of Sozopol, opting for a bungalow (15 leva) in Sinemorets. This is the last substantial settlement before Rezovo, on the border with Turkey and is just beginning to be discovered as a beach destination. With swathes of white sand to the north and south and rocky coast too, it is a great base for sun-worshippers and walkers alike; inland, to the west, is the Strandzha nature reserve.

For the more adventurous, take a chance and strike off down one of the bumpy dirt tracks on the road towards Rezovo. We tried this and were rewarded by discovering a small campsite at the edge of yet another stunning beach flanked by wild, rocky promontories. This really was the “off the beaten track” experience, flies constantly buzzing around the tent no extra charge, but well worth it for the untamed natural beauty that you just can’t find lounging around the pool in five-star luxury (though of course there’s no reason why you shouldn’t reward yourselves with this to round off your trip, once you’ve satisfied your urge for camping).