Sir
Some random observations
I AM English, I live in France at the moment, with my Sofian wife and our child. I first visited Bulgaria three years ago, and had the impression of visiting "third world Europe".
I would like to make a few random observations on life as I believe it in this proud but effacing country.
Sofia
An oddly-placed capital city, with no waterways and an unbelievable road network, which could not be compared to any Western European capital I know. It is painfully obvious that the people who live and work here have little or no say in the way in which development and changes disfigure it. Old buildings with once beautiful facades crumble and are dominated by ugly new blocks and complexes. These new developments are probably awaiting foreign investors, as few Bulgarians have the necessary budget to rent or live in them.
Daytime brings people into the streets, walking aimlessly in front of shop windows. It seems unemployment is only five per cent but most people seem to have no particular purpose in the grinding on of the capital's commerce. The majority of workers do long hours, receive little pay and, only in their thousands, can hope to contribute to the capital's economy - if they pay any tax.
Night-time brings out the unscrupulous taxi drivers and car thefts, muggings, and even shootings are regular occurrences. People advise me not to walk in the streets after dark.
Surrounded by I don't know how many Stalinesque apartment blocks, left to the care of those who live in them, the outskirts of Sofia has a very special image. My in-laws live in Lyulin (200 000 people) where most of the blocks are in very bad condition and water cuts, etc, are all too frequent, not to mention the communal heating system. Even so, some people manage to improve their lot. Sadly, the "green spaces" have become scrap yards and parking areas for wrecked cars and play areas for street dogs, and trigger-happy locals lighting fires and drinking rakia.
Sparkling new shops spring up, full of new products from Germany, Italy, etc, at prices only a handful of people can afford to pay.
Almost against all odds, many young people try to motivate themselves for what may or may not be a better future. Those who are old, or over what may be considered an employable age, are in general deeply saddened by the present social and economic climate, and know that the "good old days" are gone.
In the country
Driving around the countryside of the far hills of the Balkans and the Rhodopes, one seems to go back a century.
Roasted by sun and snow, men and women drive goats up and down dale, harvest tobacco with the most rudimentary equipment, make bricks from natural clay which dry in the sun, or try selling handfuls of raspberries or plums. There will be no improvement for these people whatever happens in Europe, they may even lose the right to live and work they do as their products surely will not meet the required standards of the EU. France and others have suffered the same consequences.
I read that the small town of Bansko has been inundated with greedy businessmen throwing up hotels without a thought for water supplies or dirty water treatment. This lack of foresight can only be detrimental to the environment and could easily be avoided with a little research and a minimum of comprehension - where are the controlling bodies?
My in-laws have a small country house about half an hour from Sofia, overlooking a beautiful valley of the stinking Iskar River. One takes one's life in one's hands to drive there, such treacherous roads, but it is worth it. Of course, the water supply is rainfall, and often there is no electricity, and in winter the snow renders a visit impossible. The local people do what they can but where is the state help?
Black Sea coast
This year we spent several day on the coast.
Like your correspondent, Marlene Smits, we hoped to find a small fishing village with a simple hotel, etc...idyllic. Well, there are none left.
In the first place, we were lucky to arrive in one piece as the kamikaze drivers (no fear) cut and dive between every truck and car, from Stara Zagora to Bourgas.
After discussing a suitable destination with friends, we arrived in Nessebar - very sad to see this old town completely submerged in tourist rubbish and over-eager restaurateurs. One "customer chaser" spoke to me in English, "this way, sir" and when I said, "no thank you", he replied: "English shit". Not very appetising.
Beaches here seem all to be covered with parasols that are charged for, all a bit naff.
Alapaya, less than 25 km from Turkey, turned out to be a mixture of caravans and chalets, thrown together all over what was probably a pretty little cove. Very rudimentary amenities, and completely cut off from any town - highly unsuitable for small children.
We finally opted for Sozopol where we easily found a clean room with bathroom and terrace overlooking the bay, for 40 leva a night. The town has everything, except the brashness of Nessebar, and the beaches have places where anybody can plant a parasol. Even the handful of cafes on the beach charged normal prices for food and drink (salad one lev, big beer 1.50 leva, etc). A pity about the music, but I suppose somebody must like it. Everything here was a pleasant surprise and the people friendly.
Even though one is on the Black Sea coast, fresh fish are few and far between, only Kalkan (turbot), delicious but pricey, and a couple of other fish are available. Most food is frozen or pre-cooked to preserve it - a great shame.
Of course, the whole region is suffering from a completely wild construction programme which, in the future, will surely alienate all the locals and nationals, and create grotesque resorts, of the kind on the Mediterranean in the 1960s and 1970s. Where are the controls?
Personality
Visiting Bulgaria is always an eye-opener and one has the feeling that one can "do"something. My family hope to immigrate here permanently within the next two years and will be hell-bent to make a go of it. I hope that Bulgarian politicians realise, before it is too late, that the EU is a monumental trap, and study their own national problems before jumping in with both feet, and their eyes closed.
- Robert Woolley
Gabian France
Some random observations
I AM English, I live in France at the moment, with my Sofian wife and our child. I first visited Bulgaria three years ago, and had the impression of visiting "third world Europe".
I would like to make a few random observations on life as I believe it in this proud but effacing country.
Sofia
An oddly-placed capital city, with no waterways and an unbelievable road network, which could not be compared to any Western European capital I know. It is painfully obvious that the people who live and work here have little or no say in the way in which development and changes disfigure it. Old buildings with once beautiful facades crumble and are dominated by ugly new blocks and complexes. These new developments are probably awaiting foreign investors, as few Bulgarians have the necessary budget to rent or live in them.
Daytime brings people into the streets, walking aimlessly in front of shop windows. It seems unemployment is only five per cent but most people seem to have no particular purpose in the grinding on of the capital's commerce. The majority of workers do long hours, receive little pay and, only in their thousands, can hope to contribute to the capital's economy - if they pay any tax.
Night-time brings out the unscrupulous taxi drivers and car thefts, muggings, and even shootings are regular occurrences. People advise me not to walk in the streets after dark.
Surrounded by I don't know how many Stalinesque apartment blocks, left to the care of those who live in them, the outskirts of Sofia has a very special image. My in-laws live in Lyulin (200 000 people) where most of the blocks are in very bad condition and water cuts, etc, are all too frequent, not to mention the communal heating system. Even so, some people manage to improve their lot. Sadly, the "green spaces" have become scrap yards and parking areas for wrecked cars and play areas for street dogs, and trigger-happy locals lighting fires and drinking rakia.
Sparkling new shops spring up, full of new products from Germany, Italy, etc, at prices only a handful of people can afford to pay.
Almost against all odds, many young people try to motivate themselves for what may or may not be a better future. Those who are old, or over what may be considered an employable age, are in general deeply saddened by the present social and economic climate, and know that the "good old days" are gone.
In the country
Driving around the countryside of the far hills of the Balkans and the Rhodopes, one seems to go back a century.
Roasted by sun and snow, men and women drive goats up and down dale, harvest tobacco with the most rudimentary equipment, make bricks from natural clay which dry in the sun, or try selling handfuls of raspberries or plums. There will be no improvement for these people whatever happens in Europe, they may even lose the right to live and work they do as their products surely will not meet the required standards of the EU. France and others have suffered the same consequences.
I read that the small town of Bansko has been inundated with greedy businessmen throwing up hotels without a thought for water supplies or dirty water treatment. This lack of foresight can only be detrimental to the environment and could easily be avoided with a little research and a minimum of comprehension - where are the controlling bodies?
My in-laws have a small country house about half an hour from Sofia, overlooking a beautiful valley of the stinking Iskar River. One takes one's life in one's hands to drive there, such treacherous roads, but it is worth it. Of course, the water supply is rainfall, and often there is no electricity, and in winter the snow renders a visit impossible. The local people do what they can but where is the state help?
Black Sea coast
This year we spent several day on the coast.
Like your correspondent, Marlene Smits, we hoped to find a small fishing village with a simple hotel, etc...idyllic. Well, there are none left.
In the first place, we were lucky to arrive in one piece as the kamikaze drivers (no fear) cut and dive between every truck and car, from Stara Zagora to Bourgas.
After discussing a suitable destination with friends, we arrived in Nessebar - very sad to see this old town completely submerged in tourist rubbish and over-eager restaurateurs. One "customer chaser" spoke to me in English, "this way, sir" and when I said, "no thank you", he replied: "English shit". Not very appetising.
Beaches here seem all to be covered with parasols that are charged for, all a bit naff.
Alapaya, less than 25 km from Turkey, turned out to be a mixture of caravans and chalets, thrown together all over what was probably a pretty little cove. Very rudimentary amenities, and completely cut off from any town - highly unsuitable for small children.
We finally opted for Sozopol where we easily found a clean room with bathroom and terrace overlooking the bay, for 40 leva a night. The town has everything, except the brashness of Nessebar, and the beaches have places where anybody can plant a parasol. Even the handful of cafes on the beach charged normal prices for food and drink (salad one lev, big beer 1.50 leva, etc). A pity about the music, but I suppose somebody must like it. Everything here was a pleasant surprise and the people friendly.
Even though one is on the Black Sea coast, fresh fish are few and far between, only Kalkan (turbot), delicious but pricey, and a couple of other fish are available. Most food is frozen or pre-cooked to preserve it - a great shame.
Of course, the whole region is suffering from a completely wild construction programme which, in the future, will surely alienate all the locals and nationals, and create grotesque resorts, of the kind on the Mediterranean in the 1960s and 1970s. Where are the controls?
Personality
Visiting Bulgaria is always an eye-opener and one has the feeling that one can "do"something. My family hope to immigrate here permanently within the next two years and will be hell-bent to make a go of it. I hope that Bulgarian politicians realise, before it is too late, that the EU is a monumental trap, and study their own national problems before jumping in with both feet, and their eyes closed.
- Robert Woolley
Gabian France
