Address: 2 Lege Str
Open: every day, 11.00 to midnight
Tel: 980 24 24, 089/ 686 03 40
[moskva.bg]
Little things at restaurants, like saying the name of the establishment called when picking up the phone, assuring the presence of free-of-charge bread and water at each table, and serving vodka in a chilled glass, distinguish nice from superior.
Restaurant Moskva (Ресторан Москва) fulfils all these requirements, and then some. Like partitioned-off dining areas, ideal for intimate suppers or private transactions; a staff that is attentive and forbearing, even when grilled on the choice of music or types of vodka; chairs that are quiet and stable when being moved; and knowing which language of menu (Bulgarian, English or Russian) should be given to whom.
On the other side, the first time we went, a Thursday evening at about 9pm, the restaurant was on the cooler end of comfortable; the vent high over our heads did not help. I pointed this out to the host, and he said that there was nothing he could do.
Also, the music was some kind of fast-beat techno-dance music, which did not benefit a refined atmosphere. I kindly asked if there were anything to be done about the music, if there were something milder available, as what was coming over the sound system did not exactly engender a sense of intimacy or calm. He kindly replied that if I understood Russian, I would hear that it was Russian music, and gave a smile of apology. Though he committed to nothing, the music soon transformed into something more civil, namely, live Russian tunes on piano and violin.
On none of the occasions that I have been to Moskva has anyone offered to take my coat or informed of a cloakroom. There is one, though you have to ask for it.
Service, as a whole, is near impeccable, with waiters available when needed, knowledgeable about the menu and about the extensive listing of vodkas (more than 15 on offer, from Stolichnaya at 3.99 leva for 50ml to Tsarskoye Selo at 11.99 leva for 50ml), and treating guests with respect and courtesy.
If looking for true Russian cuisine, stick to the cold appetisers, the soups, the salads, the warm appetisers, and the baked dishes and dessert. While the main dishes are Russian, they’re more Continental-Russian. And in no case could the food be called hearty or provincial, even the borsch (7.99 leva).
The waiters earn points for asking, when a guest is ordering, when he wants a certain item to be delivered – should the soup come at the beginning of the meal, or after the salad?
It seems to fall to the guest, however, to ask for the wine list. The selection is limited, but sufficient, with bottles (Bulgarian and imported) starting at slightly more than 23 leva. Our first choice of Telish Chalet Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 had since been drunk by other connoisseurs, so the waiter suggested the winery’s merlot. Expertly poured, not one drop falling on the starched white linen, the wine immediately recalled cherry jam.
The food arrives rather quickly, and at the proper temperature, though one time my summer salad of cubes of mixed vegetables and lettuce (5.99 leva) arrived a bit too chilled, as though it had sat in a refrigerator since the morn. But all the ingredients were fresh and crisp, showing no signs of age. The salad of sauerkraut with grated carrots and apples (4.99 leva) is worthwhile, with a complex blend of sweet, sour and salty, coming topped with a sprinkling of little blueberries.
Popular, and for a good reason, is the coated herring (7.99 leva), which is listed under the salads section of the menu, though it seems more an appetiser. This timbale of herring, boiled potatoes, carrots, beet, egg, onion and mayonnaise comes topped with finely grated egg. Mild, creamy and suitable for those who do not like either fish or beets, for it tastes particularly of neither.
Soups have won us over, notably the solyanka (6.99 leva) and the royal uha (9.99 leva, served with a fish pirozhka (raised-dough dumpling)). The veal tongue, bacon and sausage that make up the solyanka are tender, and the pickles, onions, olives and capers add to its depth, with lemon and sour cream providing the requisite sourness, whereas the royal uha’s salmon and sturgeon, potatoes, carrots, onion and vodka come together in a flavourful, yet delicate, broth, with the pieces of meat and vegetable neither too large nor too small.
The plate of homemade pelmeni (like little Chinese potstickers, 4.99 leva) filled with minced meat and onion come served with uksus vinegar, sour cream and mustard.
This mustard is hot! and very nice. They sit in some melted butter, and are sufficiently insipid. But they’re a safe bet for those favouring mild flavours.
The appetiser of jellied beef tongue and pork (recommended for those who like different textures) also comes with this delightful Russian mustard, along with a smear of horseradish.
Beef Stroganoff (19.99 leva), which truly is a Russian creation, is one of the main courses available. The beef is tender and marries well with the mushroom-sour cream sauce. Other options include duck with morello cherry sauce, grilled lamb, chicken Kiev and salmon with a sweet-and-sour sauce.
The dessert blini, two of them, served rolled like cigars, are cute and approachable.
Dinnertime seems to be the more popular for Moskva, as at a recent Monday lunch, we were one of three occupied tables, in a space that would hold about 100 guests. It’s discreetly divided into sections, though, so one does not feel exposed.
Guests are as refined as the atmosphere, which is highly so, but not off-putting. (The burgundy and the heavy drapes recall Tsar Alexander.) There is no condescension from staff or customers, as if all knew that they were comfortable in their position, and had happily decided to enjoy it.
