The warmth of a burning fire stroking the feet and shoulders, the refreshing night breeze tussling hair, the fragrance of sea water and the roar of waves crushing into the shore to the sound of acoustic guitars – the atmosphere of the evening preceding July 1 is romantic and relaxed, but not for long.
Hundreds of people of all ages have gathered together to enjoy the unforgettable view of the sun kissing the sea over the horizon. Ever since the crowded beaches of Varna, Bulgaria’s "sea capital", were deserted by the conventional tourists around 7pm, a flood of people carrying rucksacks or hauling guitars in large black cases poured on the vast fields of sand to prepare for the forthcoming all-night wait for the July sun to rise.
The tradition of celebrating the first morning of July dates back to the 1970s and 1980s. It is peculiar to Bulgaria and has its roots in the hippie movement in America. Every year on the night of June 30, thousands of people from all over the country travel to the Black Sea coast to meet the first rays of the sun on July 1.
Although celebrations started in Varna in the beginning of the 1990s and were first done on Pier 1 of Varna East port, now the thrill has spread to the beaches all over the Black Sea coast - Kamen Bryag, Kavarna, Bourgas, Sozopol, Ahtopol, Irakli, Chernomorets, and Shabla.
The evening dusk is slowly darkening and the night is approaching as a group of young people looks around the beach to find the perfect spot to settle. “Here, sit closer to the blanket,” a girl, who appears to be around 18, shouts at one of the boys.
“We have traveled all the way from Stara Zagora to watch the sunrise because we sought adventure and emotion, and we dreamed about it for a long time,” Stefan Zhelyazkov, 17, says and grins widely with satisfaction. “We brought with us thick clothes to keep us warm during the night and a blanket to sit on, on advice of our friends who went unprepared last year to find out that it was freezing near the sea.”
The enthusiastic youngsters have brought a guitar with them to keep the spirit alive by singing evergreen rock ballads. “I brought my guitar not only because my friends wanted me to do it, but also because it was a dream of mine. Besides, I find it kind of hippie,” Silvia Angelova, 18, says while strumming quietly the well-known tune of Nirvana, Smells Like Teen Spirit, to warm up. “Last year I didn’t celebrate Juyl 1. This year, I am going to enjoy myself twice as much,” she adds as her blue eyes sparkle playfully in the dim light cast by a nearby fire.
Veteran followers of July morning tradition share the opinion that most young people do not realise the idea of it or truly appreciate the unique experience. They believe the original meaning of celebrating July 1 has been lost over time and young enthusiasts rather head to the seaside in quest of adventure or to spend a night of wild partying than understand how the tradition originated.
“Older hippies celebrate July Morning because of the nostalgia for their youth and of the happy memories,” Rossina Grueva, 45, says. “There is some succession, since young people have come here. Young people need more such symbols and gatherings,” she adds.
For older generations, July Morning has a symbolic meaning. The rise of the morning sun represents the beginning of life and generates a feeling of rebirth. According to common beliefs, the July sun endows one with unique energy and hope.
“I came to celebrate July Morning because of the thrill of it and the gathering with old acquaintances. Also, the song by Uriah Heep is from 1971 – it reminds me of my youth and is a symbol of old friendships,” Diana Dimitrova, 46, says. “It is a way to feel closer to the rock fans, the songs, the sea coast, the smiles (…) this is the meaning of the experience for me. Another reason for coming are the young faces of the followers of our generation,” she adds.
Hundreds of people have left behind their daily concerns, jobs and duties to spend a night and dawn of unlimited freedom, unity of minds and purifying spiritual relief. Some of them have exams on the following morning, some will be absent from work, but the undying tradition and the desire to be different, free from prejudice, to not conform to the norms and to overcome the differentiation between ages and social classes proves to be more powerful.
“It is nice when people gather together, united by good ideas, because in Bulgqaria there is very distinct differentiation in society. Drinking, singing, celebrating without drugs, this is why I am here again on July 1, because places where you have had happy memories attract you and you go there again,” Zhivko, a 29-year-old guitar player, recognised by his friends for his talent and known under the nickname “the July guitarist”, says before starting the next song.
The stars above shine brightly. Large circles of people sitting around more than twenty large fires adorn the beach near Chaika (Bulgarian for seagull) neighbourhood in Varna. “Do you want to join us? We are with the huge group by the big fire over there!” two girls invite 18-year-old Silvia and her friends as they pass them by and, hearing the guitar, point to a wide circle of at least fifteen people. Some of them are wearing swimsuits despite the cool breeze and the stone-cold sand. They are apparently planning to try the water, feeling secure by the lively warm fire. Others are dragging tree branches found at some mysterious, unknown to the rest spot, to sustain the fire. Two men with long ponytails playing tarambukes (goblet drums) seem to repeat the girls’ invitation.
After several beers, the companies have cheered up and jointly start to sing well-known songs by Bon Jovi, Whitesnake, Kansas, Kiss, Aerosmith and many others. Under the gentle sounds of rock ballads, some of the heroes start to feel sleepy. How do they manage to survive the night?
“In order not to fall asleep, I accompany the guitar with singing,” Lina Grueva, 18, said. “My sister says it would be better if one felt warmer or got a chance to take some sleep, but as a whole we think that if you are with funny people, the experience is definitely worth giving up one night of sleep.”
“Besides, a lot of interesting things are going on during the night – singing, dancing, swimming, eating…” Silvia adds. "The wonderful thing about July 1 is that it brings together people of all ages. I just saw four middle-aged people not far from us who enjoyed themselves as much as the rest. Moreover, the common excitement and the music unite us.”
The level of eagerness is gradually declining, and minutes before the long-expected event, even some of the most passionate enthusiasts are sleeping soundly, until their devoted friends whose will to stay up has proven stronger wake them up with loud shouts.
“Come on, hurry, take out the camera, it is about to rise soon! See the orange lining of the clouds over there?” cheerful and excited voices disturb the silence.
At 5.32am, the vivid presence of the morning sun casts its dazzling golden and scarlet rays on the small fishing boat swaying close to the shore, the dim silhouette of a distant ship, and the people, who stare at the view with wide open eyes, full of admiration.
“The sun appears closer to us and bigger than ever,” Katerina Ivanova, 17, says without moving her finger from the camera button and with her eyes set firmly on the sun, seeming to be surrounded by a golden halo. “You feel somehow reborn and purified,” Lina adds.
A little cold, a little tired, but smiling and content – the throngs on Chaika beach derive immense satisfaction in sharing the feeling in this special moment with like-minded people. With the first rays of the sun – a perfect radiant reward for the long expectation, amid the euphoria and torrents of friendly kisses and hugs come the first sounds of the song of Uriah Heep, July Morning, which unites hundreds of different people under a common idea – the search for the ultimate sense of freedom.
“I have never imagined a more beautiful sunrise!” Stefan shouts, breathless with excitement as he stands on tiptoe to see more of the splendid view, forgetting that he is the tallest boy on the beach. “It is perfect!”
