Nestled in the mountains near one of the passes through Stara Planina at 400m above sea level is the Troyan monastery, a masterpiece of Bulgaria’s Revival period. Both the town and the monastery played a key role in the process, which culminated in the April revolt against Ottoman rule in 1876 and Bulgaria’s liberation two years later.

The town can trace its roots back to the Roman military road through the mountain pass. Its very name is believed to be a corrupted version of Trajan, the Roman emperor who used the province of Moesia, which covered a large part of present Bulgaria, as the setting for his wars against the Dacian tribes in what is now Romania. The contemporary town started as a small settlement at the end of the 14th century, when the Second Bulgarian Empire fell to the advancing Ottomans. Around the same time, a monk settled in a cottage he built himself, establishing the foundations of the monastery, according to its own chronicles, kept by an anonymous monk. Even though the monk was a hermit, the people from the nearby village would visit him for prayer, so he built a church, consecrated to the Holy Virgin.

And by way of the same old Roman road, the monastery acquired its holiest relic, the miracle-working icon of the Holy Virgin Troerouchitsa, the one of three hands. According to the legend, duly written down by the unknown chronicler, it was left at the monastery by a monk from Mount Athos, who was carrying it to Valahia, only to find himself lost and returning to the monastery every time he tried to continue his journey.

The monastery started to really grow in the second half of the 18th century, when the Bulgarian identity of the people inhabiting the land surged to the fore. It coincided with a period of strong economic growth and Troyan, due to its location, was among the towns that prospered most, developing as one of the most important craft centres in the Stara Planina area. The renewed interest in culture made monasteries a natural recipient of the money. In the second half of the century, the monastery underwent a complete re-construction, its old wooden church replaced by a stone one and its school expanded as its fame spread. It expanded further during the stewardship of Paisii, who spent 32 years as the abbot of the monastery until 1817.

Winning independence from the Lovech bishopric in 1830 by becoming subordinated directly to the Patriarch of Constantinople, just five years later it had a new church, which still stands. It is painted in the bright colours that defined Revival art, depicting biblical scenes both inside and outside, under the supervision of one of the best-known artists of the period, Zahari Zograf, whose portrait, along with those of the biggest donors, can be seen inside the church. Zograf had earlier worked in the Rila and Bachkovo monasteries, the only ones that surpass in size the one in Troyan, and one can see the similarities in style. One of the features that sets it apart, however, is the iconostasis of the church, carved entirely out of walnut wood by artisans from the town of Tryavna.

All of these can be observed by visitors, as well as the cell used by Bulgarian revolutionary Vassil Levski during his frequent overnight stays at the monastery, which has now been transformed into a small museum. Unfortunately, last time I visited in 2004, the use of cameras was forbidden inside the monastery gates (the photos on this page were taken with a hidden camera). That is the only major restriction on visitors, who are welcomed year-round and can even stay overnight on the grounds. The monastery offers rooms with rates depending on whether any meals are included and small discounts for large groups (for more information, call 06952/ 2866, 2480, 2487 or 089/ 666 80 30). The town of Troyan, just 10km north-west of the monastery, also offers ample housing accommodation, with hotels ranging from two to four stars. The area also has numerous restaurants and traditional taverns, all of them offering the local version of rakiya, distilled from plums. A small detour to the town of Oreshak is also worth the time, since it is home to Bulgaria’s biggest exhibition of traditional crafts, where one can see and buy hand-made products such as pottery, carved wood and woven carpets.

To get to Troyan, take the road to Veliko Turnovo. The exit is clearly marked and the monastery is easily accessed down an asphalt road linking Troyan to Oreshak.