Sandanski, the sunniest and warmest town in Bulgaria, has been known for a long time to Bulgarians for the therapeutic virtues of its air and mineral waters.

Under communism, sanatoriums offered a wide range of treatments for asthma and other respiratory diseases. Since the beginning of the 90s, Greeks have also discovered this little town, which lies just over the border and has a distinctive Mediterranean flair. On a summer night, it seems like the whole town is leisurely strolling on the main pedestrian promenade, enjoying cafes and restaurants, and relaxing by the pervasive, sweet sound of water. And, indeed, water seems to be everywhere: from the stream that happily cascades down the beautiful public garden, to the many fountains, pools and spas, it offers a sense of harmony and peacefulness.

Still, the city takes its name from a revolutionary, a hero of the fight for Macedonian independence against the Turks on the eve of the 20th century. Yane Sandanski was assassinated in 1915 and was buried close to Rozhen Monastery, where he had found shelter.

His tomb lays in the stunning landscape surrounding the monastery – a jewel in itself.

For Sandanski is enshrined in beauty, at the foot of Pirin Mountain, and offers endless opportunities for nature and hiking lovers. In the winter, it is one hour away from the ski resort of Bansko. It is also close to Melnik, undoubtedly one of the most beautiful villages in Bulgaria, also famous for its wineries and for the uniqueness of its natural settings (the sandstone “pyramids”).

It is no wonder then that former communist dictator Todor Zhivkov had one of his residences built in Sandanski – or, better said, overlooking the city from a distance. After the fall of communism, the residence was converted into a hotel and “christened” under the name Sveti Vrach. It still hosts, though, a makeshift museum of communism – an unexpected reminder of the former tenant, with stern portraits of Dimitrov and the complete works of Zhivkov – and the servants at the restaurant still have those attitudes which make you wonder whether the transition has taken place at all (service with no smiles and repeated “ne znam” and “nyama”). The decoration of some of the rooms is, let’s say, questionable, and the architecture on the whole is more interesting, as a testimony to the style of the 70s, than actually beautiful. But the profusion of marble, massive wood, crystal chandeliers and empty spaces is impressive; the pool of mineral water is beautiful; and the vast surrounding park is definitely worth visiting, especially in the spring, when the trees blossom.

Sveti Vrach is currently on sale and we can only hope that the next owner will improve the decoration, the service and the food at the restaurant – Sveti Vrach is certainly worth it.

Zhivkov had an improbable neighbour in the person of Baba Vanga. Baba Vanga lived in a nearby place called Rupite and received numerous visitors attracted by her reputation as a saint, a healer and a clairvoyant. A church has been built to honour her memory – she died in 1994 – and hot springs abound freely about. Sandanski, the peaceful little town named after a revolutionary, was thus lying at the crossroads between a dictator and a saint.

There is a certain magic in Sandanski, probably due to the combination of natural beauty, soothing waters and mild climate. It has, until recently, been relatively spared by the construction boom – but times change: new hotels and residences are being built, and spa treatments are available everywhere.