December 24th is a unique celebration in Bulgaria, a culmination of the 40-day fast leading up to Christmas day. The abstinence from meat, eggs and dairy products carries on into this celebratory evening meal called Budni Vecher (Бъдни вечер). Albeit being Bulgarian, I have never witnessed this tradition, having spent most of my life in the West, so I spoke with Baba Milka from Dolni Lozen, asking her to describe to me what Budni Vecher is. She explains that every region of Bulgaria differs with its own folklore variations and that she can clarify the “Shopski” (around Sofia) region, and the Christian way as she works in St George Church there.

“Budni Vecher is an intimate family evening; traditionally no guests are invited, only those that live in the house,” she says, beginning the story. The evening starts with attendance at a church service, after which the family gathers in the home and burns incense throughout the house and where the animals are kept to purify and chase away evil spirits. A pear tree Yule log is brought inside and the oldest male present sets it aflame, starting the long-burning “budnik” fire. And so the kinsfolk of three or more generations sit on the humbling straw-lain floor, resembling the Holy Manger in which the new-born Christ was laid, and the meal begins with the oldest male offering a prayer of blessing. The modest spread is laid either on a cloth covering the straw or on a low table. The first act is breaking of the bread; the “pitka” is always round, symbolising the Eternal God, and is decorated with a cross and agricultural symbols to promote healthy crops.

The highlight of the evening is the secrets hidden inside the pitka, a coin and a number of small budding twigs from the cornel tree, each distinguishable from one another foretelling the coming year. The matriarch who bakes the pitka assigns different meanings to each twig, regarding what the family may need. The coin is prosperity, the rest can be any number of things, like health, happiness, marriage, new friends, good behaviour and so on. An icon of the Virgin Mary receives the first piece of bread, and the rest is distributed from oldest to youngest. Children particularly enjoy this tradition, eagerly awaiting their luck and unmarried young ladies place a piece of bread under their pillow that night, in hopes of dreaming of the man they will wed.

The feast consist of either seven, nine or 11 dishes and also encompasses what the family grows in their garden, or at least what has been put up or is still available in December. The cooked dishes are typically a bean soup, cabbage-wrapped rice “sarmi”, stuffed peppers with rice or bulgur, cooked sweetened wheat, a compote made from dried fruit called “ushaff”, pumpkin and walnut “tikvenik” pastries and, lastly, homegrown fresh apples, pears, quinces and walnuts.

Wine is the only alcoholic beverage present. Alcohol is not allowed during fasts, with wine being the exception on certain days for its biblical connection. The table must be perfectly set in advance so that once everyone is seated further getting up to bring another dish is avoided. Once the meal finishes, everyone stands up at once to ensure steadfast healthy wheat growth. The feast is to be left as is and not cleared, for tradition says that the Virgin Mary comes to replenish herself during the night.

In the course of this same evening, a group of costumed “kolidari”, boys and unmarried young men, visit homes singing songs and verses of crop abundance and blessings for the family. The hosts, in return, thank them with walnuts, dried fruit and small bread items. Thus the pious night comes to a close, bringing forth the end of the 40-day fast and a new unrestricted lavish celebration of Christmas day.

1 package filo pastry sheets (400-500g), 1kg ground raw pumpkin or winter squash, 1/4 cup oil, 1 cup ground walnut pieces, 1/2 cup sugar, cinnamon to taste, powder sugar for decoration.

In a bowl mix together the pumpkin, walnuts, sugar and cinnamon. For an easier version, place a few filo sheets in a greased baking pan, brush a layer with oil and sprinkle some of the pumpkin mix, place the next filo layer on top, brush with oil and sprinkle more pumpkin mix, continue layering until all the pumpkin mix is used up. For a prettier yet more difficult version, roll each layer into a thin cylinder placing it in a round tin and creating a spiral into the centre.

Bake at 200 C in preheated oven for 25 minutes or until slightly brown. When cooled, sprinkle with powder sugar; cut into pieces to serve.