Address: 6 Shipka Str
Union of Bulgarian Artists
Tel: 944 41 41
(gallery space, library and photo archives)
Opening hours:
Cafe – morning to night, about 20.30;
Galleries – Tues-Sun 11.00-17.00 (April to October)/10.00-18.00 (November to March)
Something about the total lack of atmosphere or class keeps people coming back to Shipka 6 Union of Bulgarian Artists (Съюзът на българските художници). A three-storey gallery, office space, rez-de-chausse of art supply shops and a pitiful cafe have somehow become (or remained) the purlieu for everyone ranging from the big names of Bulgaria’s art world to students, diplomats and locals – of all ages. It’s not uncommon to see a table of 70-year-old men drinking their morning beers and espressos next to a university kid studying for that upcoming exam.
Shipka 6 dates back to 1893, when the country’s first professional association of artists was established as the Society for Supporting the Arts in Bulgaria. Some years and additional associations later, 1932 saw the creation of the Union of Societies of Artists in Bulgaria, later renamed to the Union of Artists in Bulgaria (1944) and then in 1953, to its current name.
Though most frequent the place for its dirt-cheap cafe and laid-back environment; galleries exhibiting mostly Bulgarian art pieces and related shows like collections of books on a theme; or art supplies and quality framing ateliers (I’ve been very pleased with the results from Арковна (Arkovna), tel: 088/ 862 09 44), the Union of Bulgarian Artists is still a thriving organisation. Its current 2700 members, which include artists and critics of all generations, subscribe to the collective goal of protecting the interest of those in the arts field and promoting Bulgarian visual culture.
At 30 000 sq m, divided among four halls, the gallery space is said to comprise of the largest exhibition complex in the country. While I, personally, do not fancy the style or the quality of all the works shown, some of the exhibitions deserve to be visited. For example, September sees the Fifth International Print Triennial, which brings together 150 graphics from 100 artists from 30 countries. The International Stage Poster Triennial follows in October. In the past, I’ve been to a really cool show on different Bulgarian fonts.
But what really draws people is the cafe, with its plastic garden chairs and tables on the loading dock-like patio, edged by cement flower boxes housing scragly marigolds and empty cigarette cartons, dusky interior with an permanent aroma of smoke, scratchy 12-inch television perched on a high shelf and questionable toilet that costs 30 stotinki. A kiosk-thing stands in the centre of the hall, where an often ill-tempered woman serves tea, coffee and juice in little plastic cups at 50 or so stotinki a pop. If you’re hungry, there are plastic-wrapped sandwiches, muffins, and other assorted white flour-and-sugar concoctions.
Beer is popular and Shumensko is available on draught (served in a glass glass, in fact). Bottles from other Bulgarian brews decorate the tables along with ashtrays and used plastic stirrers.
The inside has a variety of chairs and tables, some comfortable, some not, looking like they’ve been found by the wayside, or, maybe like they should just be put out by the wayside. Around the edges of the interior, in places that do not house art or book shops, there are padded benches and longer tables.
An air conditioning unit makes distances within a few metres noticeably cooler, and it’s not too chilly inside in the winter.
About the book shops though: the selection is random and of a surprising quality. Finds include a re-edition (in English) of The Lost Books of the Bible by William Hone. Note that all the shops and the cafe are privately owned enterprises not associated with the Union of Bulgarian Artists.
As part of the union, there is a library and photo archives on the second floor, open from 1pm to 5pm Monday to Wednesday, and 10am to 1pm Thursday and Friday. I’ve never been to this part of the building.
