It is not all that haphazard that many writings describe the lands to the south of Bulgaria (without forgetting the borders fluidity over the centuries) as the birthplace of wine. According to Greek poets of Antiquity, the cultivation of vines and the production of wine was an important part of the everyday lives of everyday people.
Since then, and more specifically, in the past few years, Greek wine production has changed significantly. The northern part of the country lends itself to what could be called the “Dionysian wine road” (not to bypass that Dionysus and Bacchus were simply different names, Greek and Latin, respectively, for the same god). Accordingly, and given the number of modern wineries in existence there, it seemed ideal for a tour of what there is to offer.
Following is the translation of an article that originally appeared in Bacchus, the Bulgarian magazine for wine and gourmet culture, in October 2007.

Ktima Pavlidis

Modern thinking for the new generation of Greek vineyards

The first stop on our tour was Pavlidis in Kokinogia, 17km from Drama. To get there from Bulgaria, it is not necessary to pass through Drama if you come from Gotse Delchev – about 10km before the city there is a turn-off to the right for Kokinogia. The winery, which is located in the foothills of Mount Falakro, was founded in 1998 by Christoforos Pavlidis. The goal of Pavlidis is to offer wine of unique character while bringing Greek grape varietals to the international market.

The overall area of their own vines is 55ha, with planted areas being split between Kokinogia and Perihora. In Kokinogia, the vines are situated in front of the winery, where the south-facing terrain is slightly sloped; the red clayey soil is very good for the growing of the local varietals assyrtiko, agiorgitiko and limnio. More common grape types like sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, syrah, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and tempranillo are also grown there.

In the northern part of the Kokinogia vineyards, the cellar finds its home, its bright white facade visible from afar. The spacious entryway leads into a simple, yet stylish, reception area with a minimalistic interior, where, during the torrid summer days, one feels as if in an oasis, not to mention the fabulous view towards the vines.

Ktima Pavlidis’ oenologist Nikos Karatzas, something of a poster child for the new generation of Greek winemakers, received his education in Bordeaux, has travelled a lot and has amassed a good amount of experience for his age. His modern mindset co-incides with the wines he makes. The ground level of the building houses the stainless steel fermentation tanks. From there, the wine is transferred to the below-ground cellar, where it ages in French oak barrels. That is also where the tasting room is found.

All the wines that we tasted were very fruity, impressively fresh and concentrated. Ktima Pavlidis’ wines come in two series: Thema, coupages, and Pavlidis, made of single varietals. Here are some notes:

Thema white
Regional wine from Drama, coupage of sauvignon blanc and assyrtiko. The wine quite expectedly reconstitutes the aromatic varietal character of better sauvignon blancs in combination with interesting notes of acacia flower. (10 euro)

Pavlidis chardonnay
Regional white wine from Drama, 100 per cent chardonnay. Dense, complex, staggeringly concentrated chardonnay with a pleasant texture and magnificent fruit finish. (13 euro)

Pavlidis tempranillo
Regional red wine from Drama, 100 per cent tempranillo. Very pleasant mixture of aromas – think small red fruits – typical of the grape sort and the sweet character of American oak. (20 euro)

66100 Kokinogia, Drama
Tel: +30 25210 58300
www.ktima-pavlidis.gr