The National Museum of History

1618 Sofia, 16 Vitoshko Lale Str

Working hours:: 9.30am - 6pm
(summer hours)
Tel: 955 42 80

The setting is spectacular. Though having heard that many times before, it wasn’t until actually visiting Sofia’s National Museum of History that I realised it.

Located in what was the former Home One of Bulgaria’s communist-era Boyana Residence, where the museum has been since 2000, the grass-, tree- and reproduction artefact-lined front lawn, for lack of a more majestic term, sets the residence, again for lack of a more majestic term, against the tree-covered Vitosha Mountains.

Very much a building that calls back the 1970s. In a good way. This is the height of modernist environmental style. I was impressed.

The easiest way to arrive is by trolleybus number two, which has a stop across from the National Library Cyril and Methodius on Vassil Levski Boulevard. It drops you off, about 30 minutes later, on a road just across from the museum; all that is necessary is to cross Okolovrushten Put (the Ring Road), take a path through some trees and voila! You arrive.

It is also possible to take mashroutka (mini-van taxi) number 21, or a taxi.

Tickets cost 10 leva for adults, one lev for school and university students, and families are three leva for adults and one lev each for children seven years and older. Entrance is free on Mondays, the last Sunday of every month, and for uniformed soldiers, disabled persons and pre-school children.

Combined tickets with the Boyana Church and the Zemen Monastery are also available, and are valid for one month.

Be aware that you may take photos and video recordings, but you have to pay for a special permission pass: 10 leva for still cameras and 80 leva for video. When I was taking a picture, a museum staff member came over to me and asked for my pass, so they do check.

Inside, the museum’s decor is marble and wood. Pleasingly, it is not overbearing. Actually, it is beautiful. The Sun Room is of particular handsome elegance: the hall’s centre features a ceiling of carved wood, with similarly carved small wood panels lining the walls. Situated at the back of the museum, the room’s wall-sized windows open up onto a view of the surrounding mountains in all their lushness.

In this room is a permanent exhibit on the medieval history of the Bulgarian state, from its pagan status, to the first independent state under Khan Kubral (632-665), to the first Bulgarian empire in the Balkans (681-864), to Byzantine rule (1018-1185) and Tsar Kaloyan (1197–1207). Medieval Bulgaria was a period not like Western Europe’s Middle Ages.

Besides being able to look at 13th-century bronze bells; a silver, gilt and enamel repousse cover of the Gospels – on which there is an image of St Kilment Ohridski – from the 14th century; the 13th-century Boyana Psalmer; and pottery from Nessebar, Kaliakra and Sozopol, there are maps.

The maps, near the entrance to the Sun Room, were my favourite thing. To be able to see and comprehend the borders of the numerous – and often massive – former Bulgarian states clarified some of Bulgaria’s history more than any words could. For example, the Bulgaria as established by Khan Kuber (late 7th century) extended from west of the Black Sea and north of Thessaloniki to north-east of the Caspian Sea.

Other halls in the museum house temporary and additional permanent exhibits.

For example, on the first floor there is a room dedicated to the pre-history of Bulgaria, from the Neolithic period to the Bronze Age. As one of the oldest civilisations in Europe, this country’s soil has turned up many an historic artefact, which the museum presents.

There are also areas dedicated to Bulgaria’s history from the 6th century BCE to the 6th century CE, where are found Thracian treasures of great value, and Bulgarian lands under Ottoman rule.

A permanent display of national costumes and fashions of the past is also very interesting.

Until May 31, the National Museum of History is featuring Bulgarian treasures from the 6th century BCE to the 2nd century CE.

One may wonder why the museum has nothing related to communism. Their policy is that to be considered properly historic for inclusion, the event, object, artefact, whatever, has to be at least 50 years old.

Basic information on exhibits is posted in English, though for individual objects, text tends to be solely in Bulgarian. However, it is always possible to ask an employee for details.

During pleasant weather, the museum grounds would make a lovely place for picnicking. With the Boyana Residence’s setting at the foot of the mountains, the atmosphere is calm and inviting.

While reaching the museum may not be the most convenient of operations, to see the residence and the history it houses is worth the trip.