Address: Vitosha Mountain, city of Sofia, Dragalevtsi neighbourhood
Tel: 02/ 967 33 60
Working hours: Mon-Sun 7am-6pm

Not deterred by our public transportation failure on the way to Boyana Church (we caught a taxi from the city centre), we were determined to successfully navigate the tram and bus system.

Starting at the corner of Rakovski and Graf Ignatiev streets, we boarded tram #10 and rode to Hladilnika, the end of the line. From there, we caught bus #64 up to Dragalevtsi village. Perhaps slightly overcome by our public transportation success, we managed to overlook a critical line in our guidebook that mentioned bus #93 delivering passengers to the Dragalevtsi chairlift (five km above the village). Oops!

So, arriving in the village with many other locals, we followed the mountain bikers, hikers and pre-teen school children and began the trek up from the village towards the chairlift. As an aside, if you are interested in seeing Vitosha Mountain, the chairlift is a great way to get to the top.

While on our walk, we decided the journey is at least half the experience. And, when the experience involves Vitosha National Park, the importance of the journey is amplified. With all of the trees in bloom, clean spring air and 20+ degree temperatures, it is hard not to enjoy all the park has to offer. After reaching the chairlift, we continued an additional kilometre uphill to the monastery.** Finally arriving at the complex, we were pleasantly surprised to learn there was no entry fee.

The Dragalevtsi Monastery, named Virgin Mary of Vitosha, dates back to 1345. Famously saved from destruction by the Ottoman conquerors, it was abandoned by the monks, then later restored by a member of Sofia’s aristocracy. The church’s architectural and artistic remnants from several different periods are among its distinguishing features.

During the 1476 restoration, the small church of the monastery was decorated with frescoes, many of which can be seen today. In the 17th century, new wall paintings adorned the central part of the church. And then, in 1932, the actual church structure was expanded with the addition of a new building.

In addition to the beautiful paintings and frescoes, the monastery is famous for the active role its clergy played in the revolutionary activity against the Turks in the mid-19th century. On several occasions, the monastery even served as hide-out for Bulgarian national hero Vassil Levski.

With such a rich history, it is no wonder we saw so many school-aged children wandering about the grounds. Though the only building you can enter is the church, the frescoes are indeed impressive. Completing a tour of the complex, you can walk past the cloisters, through the church graveyard, and on to the bell tower. It is not an extensive facility, but its setting against Vitosha is beautiful, especially in the spring.

The monastery still serves as a functioning cloister today, but no food or accommodations are offered on the premises. However, a number of restaurants can be found along the road between the monastery and the village, or in the village itself.

The most surprising moment of the trip happened while we were walking down the road toward the village. Quickly jumping out of the road, we barely avoided an untimely fate with a large, black Land Rover barrelling down the mountain. While the car itself is not out of the ordinary, we were taken aback by the Orthodox monk behind the wheel.

Safely off the road, we decided to stop at the Riverside Brewery (just above Dragalevtsi village) for lunch. With a traditional Bulgarian menu and reasonable prices, this eatery offers both indoor and outdoor dining. Taking advantage of the beautiful weather, we sat on the front porch and enjoyed the view of Vitosha.

While Dragalevtsi Monastery does not compare in size or grandeur to the one at Rila, the trip was definitely a worthwhile Saturday outing. The monastery’s long history and close proximity to Sofia make it a must-see stop.

** Side note: Alternative ways to get to the monastery include car and taxi. A taxi from the city centre will cost you between five and 10 leva and should not take more than 30 minutes.