Fri, Feb 10 2012

The accidental tourist

Fri, Feb 05 2010 10:00 CET 2907 Views 3 Comments
The accidental tourist

Photo: Provided

When I moved to the Algarve in southern Portugal I had my future mapped out. I was going to meet a Portuguese or British girl – for some reason I thought the latter would be more likely – and her name would be Claire. I would be walking my dog along the ocean on a beautifully mild winter’s day, passing one of those whitewashed villas with a kidney-shaped swimming pool and a garden decorated in purple bougainvillea.

Inside the garden would be an English rose-type reading The Times, a divorcee sojourning in Albufeira to recover from her break-up. She would invite me in to share her Earl Grey tea. We would wax lyrical over the general decaying state of the UK, two kindred spirits disillusioned by the rat race. Soon I’d be chopping wood to make a log fire every evening. (That must show you what an incurable romantic I am because, as many people will attest, I’m the least practical person in the world!)

Getting real
Time to wake up! Needless to say, "Claire" never happened and would remain forever in the realm of fantasy. The only British girls I actually met in the Algarve were tattooed overweight drunken "Sharons" in pubs.

My partner, of course, turned out to be neither British nor Portuguese, but Bulgarian. I first met Dessislava at Lisbon University in 2001. When she told me she was from Bulgaria I did that momentary double take which I now recognise as the habitual reaction of the ignorant Westerner when greeted with the "B" word for the first time, kind of wracking one’s head for an apposite comment but not finding one.

Dessi was attractive and intellectually curious. Unlike so many British girls she was untainted by dead-end consumerism and the cynicism that comes with it. Tall and statuesque, she has a marvellous complexion, like so many Bulgarian women. When did I fall for her? Perhaps a seminal moment came on January 31 2002. All the students in our language class attended a party at the apartment of the Venezuelan charge d’affaires in Portugal. We took the tram on what seemed like an interminable journey up and down the labyrinthine streets of the Portuguese capital. Dessi felt a little ill and I was concerned about her.

A really spacious, swanky building in Lisbon’s Belem district, the penthouse had magnificent terraces that overlooked the River Tejo. In the distance, on that wonderful late winter night shimmering under the stars, you could see the Monument of Discoveries and the 25 Abril Bridge and the Belem Tower. Dessi and I were chatting outside and then rejoining the others but somehow we kept drifting back to each other. And somewhere along the line the "others" ceased to exist for me on that particular evening.

Practical problems
First, however, we had a practical problem to solve. Dessi was not technically legal in Portugal. It was pre-EU accession and she couldn’t work in Lisbon. To address this, we came up with a convoluted plan based on the advice of a friend who had been through a similar situation. We were told to advertise for a "domestica interna" (a live-in home help), stipulate impossibly stringent criteria (a 60-hour week of hard labour for a minimum salary) to which nobody, naturally, in their right mind would reply. Then and only then – when no Portuguese candidate was forthcoming – would I be able to "hire" Dessi from abroad. Yet the authorities, perhaps detecting a ruse, clamped down on this activity before Dessi could become my domestic servant.

By then we had decided to marry anyway. Gibraltar seemed to be the ideal place – "in the footsteps of John Lennon and Sean Connery" – as our taxi driver told us on the way to the Caleta Palace Hotel. Gibraltar was, in fact, Dessi’s first taste of the UK – in the far south of Spain surrounded by monkeys!

Much harder was settling in a country - Portugal - which, ultimately, was home to neither of us. We knew nothing of the ins and outs of the healthcare system, for example, leading to a maze of complexity when our daughter arrived in 2005. In many cases it was the blind leading the blind or, in this case, Dessi, with her great gift for languages, was the queen with one eye. Yet something was missing. After many fits and starts, we found ourselves moving inexorably towards Sofia where we have been since 2006. In the end it’s always easier when one of you is in your own country.

  • Print
  • Send via email
  • Translate to
  • Share:

Comments

Anonymous Maya Sun, Mar 14 2010 11:01 CET

What a delightful story! I'd love to see more pictures of your family.

Anonymous alexander Mon, Feb 08 2010 12:07 CET

great story ,wish all the very best , you have found a real gem of a girl dessi, and the joy of your baby ,

Anonymous Milen Fri, Feb 05 2010 23:23 CET

haha, very beautiful story!


To post comments, please, Login or Register.


Please read the The Sofia Echo forum comments policy.

More in this category

Friendly faces

Your Facebook friends have more friends than you and other surprising findings from a new Facebook study.

Book Review: The Innovator’s Cookbook

Entrepreneur lists ingredients that allow creativity to flourish.

Book Review: The Leaderless Revolution

‘Hidden’ voices challenge power’s holders.

Meryl plays Maggie

The movie biopic of Lady Thatcher has divided British voters once more.

The Sofia Echo News Quiz 2011

Of babies, fines, Schengen, the census and promises.