A new bistro opened less than a year ago, where economical dining is not accompanied by tasteless surroundings, vulgar music, suspicious dinners and blaringly cheap food. If you happen to be in the Souhata Reka area of Sofia, along Botevgradsko Chaussée, and in need of a pleasant, inexpensive lunch, Bistro Nashentsi is the place to pop into. ("Nashentsi" means something like "our folk" or "our fellow countrymen".)

Sitting outside in its breezy front garden on wooden patio furniture (20-person capacity) is one of the nicest places to be in this neighbourhood, where special efforts have been taken to beautify the place with all kinds of potted flora and lush vines for shade. The family-owned eatery is on the first floor of the house; inside it is clean, dotted with plants, with curtains of pale blue gauze, and upon lovely hardwood floors is seating for about 25. The décor is that of average folks wishing to make their business and livelihood attractive; it has no feeling of pretentiousness, and nothing particularly unsightly or kitsch, simply a calm, pleasant surrounding. Music is gently played, never overbearing, and never chalga.

The cuisine is Bulgarian, though always with an abundance of fresh parsley or dill at every dish, uplifting the sometimes heavy Bulgarian cooking to a fresh status. Daily specials are the cheapest and often the best, encompassing a soup or two, and an entrée priced between one and four leva. One time I happened upon a risotto with chicken and vegetables, presented in an upside-down bowl shape and sprinkled with cheese and, as always, a wealth of parsley. This was particularly tasty and filling, with the chicken being juicy and nicely combined with the other ingredients.

From the existing printed menu, which is currently only in Bulgarian, one can find the classic national offerings, the basic appetisers, and grill (skara) items, including chicken, pork and minced meat, all of which are of standard grade. Beverages are the usual restaurant fare, with good coffee, beer on draught and stronger alcohols.

A good starter, in fact a filling meal in itself, is the chicken livers village-style (4.70 leva), sautéed with thickly sliced onions, peppers, tomatoes and mushrooms, quite tasty with toasted bread rolls. The authentic shopska salad (three leva) is one I always order, crafted with fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, sliced rings of onion and bountifully covered with feta cheese and parsley. This salad is so large – such generosity is rarely seen elsewhere – that for many it is a lunch in itself, or a starter for two.

The bistro also veers into Italian cuisine, with four spaghetti dishes (all 4.50 leva), and 12 different kinds of pizzas, in four sizes, the smallest being 18cm, followed by 22cm, then 28cm, and the largest a catering size: 50cm diameter. We always order the 28cm size, which my husband can eat whole, or my daughter and I share. There are no gourmet toppings but the basics are covered successfully and on favourably thin crusts. Our usual, the capricciosa (4.50 leva for the 28cm), consists of tomato sauce, ham, peppers, mushrooms and cheese.

Although, I often prefer a custom one with olives instead of ham, which the chef happily obliges, as with all customer requests. We have also enjoyed the rio mare (6.60 for 28cm) of tomato sauce, canned fish, sweet corn, olives and cheese, and the daring jalapenos (6.90 for 28cm) of tomato sauce, chicken, chilly peppers and cheese.

The main waitress is the wife, who is friendly and attentive; the other one is an inexperienced young girl, who is shy, but noticeably tries to do her best.

A downside is the nearby airport, whose routes pass overhead, but one can view this as entertainment for children, or that "on a journey sensation".
To conclude a meal, we occasionally order a pancake ("palachinka," 1.80 leva) with a generous filling of strawberry jam, or the ice cream Melba, which is mediocre, but children always delight in the presentation.

If you live nearby, or find yourself running errands, doing this and that, and the inevitable hunger approaches, have a meal at Bistro Nashentsi and you stomach, taste buds and wallet will not revolt.

Info

Address: 16 Vurshets Str, Souhata Reka borough, Sofia

Tel: 02/ 845 89 18

Open: 7am to 10pm, kitchen open from late morning till 9pm.

Credit cards: no