We are sat around the bar when an attractive lady comes in, and with a charming knee-wobbling smile asks: "Where is the Bilkova pharmacy exactly?" The bartender eyes her top to bottom, then jokingly says: "Well, I am the pharmacist, this is my trade and all my medicine is displayed above the counter. We treat any illness known to man – and that bottle over there (Johnnie Walker) cures swine flu and all". He then proceeds to tell her that the pharmacy has been relocated and the gorgeous lass swerves out of the pub. Shame that.

The misunderstanding is not unique, as the pub is not even called Bilkova Apteka, which is Bulgarian for herbal pharmacy. There was a pharmacy across the street once upon a time called that, whereas the establishment bore the name of Poison – or so the small blackboard by its entrance proclaimed.

The Bilkova tag however stuck on, and now everyone knows the pub as that. Coincidentally, it all makes sense really – bilka is the Bulgarian word for "herb" and with the pub initially called Poison, the association is right there in your face – if you need a cure, then you can find your medicine in the pub, so venture in bravely.

It is in the heart of Sofia, a five minute walk from Popa, the monument to patriarch Evtimii at the intersection of the Vassil Levski and Graf Ignatiev Boulevard, and even less so from the Narodno Subranie Square, home to Parliament and the SAS Radisson hotel.

Bilkova’s exact address is 22 Shishman Street, between the intersections with Ivan Vazov and Gourko streets, just a stone throw away from The Sofia Echo office. The pub was established sometime in 1992 (though no one seems to remember exactly when) and in its illustrious 17 years of history it has reached cult status amongst Sofia residents, and for a good reason.

Anyone and everyone from all walks of life are welcomed there. Foreigners, Bulgarians, expats and those who accidentally ended up here, not knowing what country this is. The atmosphere is unique both because of the regulars and the occasional crowd. You are likely to meet a mixture of posh, casual, rockers, ravers, hip-hoppers, hippies, mountaineers, artists, musicians, with the age group spanning at least two generations.

The music is pleasant and played at a perfect level, allowing for both musical enjoyment and a decent conversation, without having to scream in the face of the person you are conversing with. There is a beautiful garden outside for those who are non-smokers (smokers too, for that matter) and a small room in the back with comfortable couches, although the ventilation system does not always manage to deal with the amount of smoke inside.

From Beastie Boys to hip hop, Iron Maiden to the Beatles, Metallica to Phil Collins, Eminem to Sting – it is all there, but make no mistake, this is chalga-free zone.

At 2.20 leva a pint and spirits ranging from three to five leva, and the alarming fact that, demographically speaking, there are as many single women in the pub as there are blokes, it really makes it a must visit place. Armed with a smile, good mood and no more than 20 leva in your back burner, you are likely to alter your sensory perceptions proper, listen to decent music and have a great time. Most of all, there is no threat if getting alcohol poisoning – the alcohol is decent. Verdict: a definite must.