On the surface Sofia may seem just a broken down city, clogged with traffic jams, neglected by its politicking mayor, and populated by weary citizens and lunatic drivers. But no. There’s more to Sofia than you think. Sofians are very interested in sport, and although you may think that football, tennis or even skiing are the most popular sports you will be proved wrong. By far the leader in sporting contests is one which is unnamed, little spoken of, but practised by many commuters. It’s called ‘beat the ticket inspector’. It requires mental dexterity, combined with speed of reaction, and sometimes excellent debating skills, if you are to avoid the fine of 10 times the fare, for not having a ticket. Yes, travelling on Sofia’s public transport provides a wonderful source of material for budding writers, and can offer more fun or frustration than any other form of Bulgarian entertainment.

The system in Sofia is showing some improvement, particularly the trams which are being steadily replaced or modernised. However, the buses remain one of the chief culprits in adding to the already polluted atmosphere. The regularity of all public transport remains haphazard, and it’s not at all unusual to wait half an hour for a tram, then for two to arrive together. The drivers are not famed for their good manners, often trapping people in the hydraulic doors, or driving off too soon; and the ticket inspectors are legendary for their behaviour.

My wife works in an area of Mladost, quite a long way from the centre, and it’s difficult for her to travel back and forwards, involving buses and or trolleys. Recently, she caught a bus heading in our direction, which was being driven by a very stroppy woman. She was jerking the passengers backwards and forwards, swearing at other drivers, generally misbehaving and driving very badly. At one point along the way she stopped to make a call from a public phone booth, and further on stopped to buy some fruit from the market.

Although some people were muttering, nobody dared to challenge her. That was until nearing the centre where she encountered heavy traffic caused by a football match between Sofia’s two top teams. In her haste to cut through the traffic, she missed one stop altogether, and stopped a lot further down the road. This was too much for one passenger, who got up and in a loud voice began to remonstrate with her. What was she doing? This was public transport, she was not supposed to use it for her personal requirements, and should stop in the correct places. She argued a little, but he wouldn’t be silenced and in his anger he used the ‘ti’, more personal form of address. At this, she puffed out her ample chest and shouted at him "Don’t get so familiar, you’re not sleeping with me!"