Due to unforeseen developments that altered the previously arranged climb to Botev Peak and Vezhen, we had to abandon our plans to scale Stara Planina’s highest summits. Basically, the weather was unforgiving, some team members nursed injuries and it was agreed that those would have to be left for a later date.

So, without actually knowing where to go on the weekend, some friends suggested that we ought to visit the Vratsa Balkan range, do some light hiking and explore the waterfalls and some of the cave systems.

This article will also provide information for those interested in vertical rock climbing. We tried to obtain as much information as possible, although we did not have sufficient time to actually attempt some of those routes.

Driving to the town of Vratsa, in the northwest of Bulgaria, is a 90-minute journey from Sofia, unless you are with some raving lunatic (aka Emo Robev) determined to beat the world speed record and get there in half that time. Reaching the town, you can’t miss the imposing mountains and vertical rock cliffs that have cuddled it from all flanks. Slicing through the town, we headed towards the village of Zgorigrad, which some proud locals would actually try to convince you passes as a town. It is not, it is a village.

Before getting there and reaching the mountain, you have to pass the Vratsata, or the symbolic rock gate of the town, an imposing massive gorge carved by the Leva river. Made of vertical rock walls and spiring edges, the cliffs tower upwards towards the heavens, and locals will tell you that this is the highest vertical limestone formation on the Balkan peninsula and the highest at this altitude at that. The ‘gate’ itself is the symbol of the city, and subsequently declared a local landmark.

Visible from most parts of Vratsa is the Skaklya waterfall, which, at 144m, is the highest impermanent waterfall in South Eastern Europe, taller than the Raiskoto Pruskalo close to Botev Peak, which stands at 124.5m. It presents a beautiful and dramatic sight, especially in spring when the snow melts and the water swells. The water does diminish to a small trickle in the dead of summer, however, only for it to intensify once again in autumn. Some of the most beautiful and bizarre formations caused by the waterfall are in the middle of winter,,  when gigantic ice stalactites form down the rock face.

A wonder to explore
The Vratsa Balkan is very alpine in appearance, thickly forested and a wonder to explore. Most of it can only be done by hiking around the numerous paths scaling up the mountain. There are imposing cliffs everywhere you turn, such is the nature of the mountain. Cave formations and waterfalls are abundant, and one such iconic cave is very close to Vratsa itself.

The Ledenika cave is one of the first utilised cave systems in the country. It is more than 300m in length and consists of numerous halls and narrow passageways. Ledenika has a national landmark status and is a popular tourist destination. The cave is estimated to be more than two million years old, the system itself carved in the rock by draining water. We were told that each cubic cm of the stalactites, stalactones and stalagmites take about 100 to 150 years to form, and some of those monsters were more than 10m – do your own maths.

When entering the cave system, the first hall is called The Antechamber – the iconic hall of Ledenika, nearest to the entrance and so most affected by the elements. It is this particular hall which, in the dead of winter, is completely conquered by mesmerising ice formations, thus giving the name Ledenika to the entire cave system. Come winter time, the entrance and subsequent passageways and first hall of the cave all have a diamond-like radiance, some of the ice formations resembling knights, swords, towers and castles.

Locals insist that the cave is at its most dramatic in the winter, and we have little evidence to the contrary. We were there in mid-April, and, sadly, there was not much left of the Icy Kingdom. Forward into darkness, negotiating yourself through the narrow passageways, you will reach the Concert Hall, the largest natural hall in the cave – spanning 60m in length, 45m in width and 24m in height.

It has such unique natural acoustics that many symphony concerts are actually played inside the cave. Most of Ledenika’s famous landmarks can also be found in this hall, bizarre rock formations and stalactites aptly named as the Crocodile, Santa Claus, Witch Yaga, The Falcon, The Giant’s Head, the Mother-in-Law’s Bottom and others. Ledenika is inhabited by 16 troglobiont species, including the endemic Ledenicus (Light Hater). The aforementioned is the first ever cave dwelling organism identified in Bulgaria.

The Karst character of the Vratsa Mountain makes it the richest of its kind for cave systems in the country, with more than 500 cave systems in the perimeter, and precipices, all of them strangely and bizarrely unique with their own fauna. The caves also accommodate 19 bat species from the total of 29 bat species found in Bulgaria. (Note that all bat species in the country are protected).

Some of the most frequented and popular cave systems include – Temnata Dupka (The Dark Hole) near the Lakatnik railway station, which is the fourth longest cave in the country, spanning more than 2000m. The rock face towering above the train station of Lakatnik accommodates another cave system, Razhishkata. On the right slope of the Petrinski Gorge, there is yet a third cave system called Svinskata Dupka (Pig’s Hole).  

Out of the caves and on to the vertical world
The entire region is favoured by mountain climbers, rock climbers and hikers and it’s the home of numerous alpine and mountaineering clubs. The region is so rich in offerings that it will offer a climber something to test their courage, adrenaline and skill to the utmost – depending, of course, on the time at your own personal disposal, your technical abilities, how much of an adrenaline junkie you are, or put quite simply – how daft you are. Hiking routes from Zgorigrad, Vratsa, Bistrets and other locations are literally countless.

Climbing along those paths is breathtaking because the scenery is quite unlike anything in Vitosha or Pirin, as it has its own unique charm – paths twisting ever upwards through heavy forests, pine, spruce and oak, streams, gorges, cliffs, and more heavy forests. Oh, and what the locals affectionately refer to as the interminable Vratsa mountain fog.

The town’s favourite joke goes - a young lad in a Sofia school is asked by his geography teacher "where is Vratsa"? The boy says, "well, it’s by the mountain!". The teacher frowns and goes, "that’s wrong, son, try again". The boy, certain that he knows where Vratsa is, sheepishly insists a second time around "but it’s by the mountain". So the irate teacher says, "listen son, I’ve lived there 20 years and not once did I ever see the mountain". Did you laugh? Neither did we, but then again, the locals aren’t exactly renowned for their sense of humour.

Starting points
The starting points for all routes and eco paths are marked with either horizontal or vertical markings, or both. For the alpine climbers, there is a wide variety of overhanging cliffs, clefts, chimneys, vertical smooth rock-faces and plates that will provide sufficient challenge. The eastern massif covers the rock formations east from the gully through which the safeguard downhill path slides from the central wall. The rock face is sliced in two, with one path leading down to the Vratsa Restaurant, whereas the other snakes towards Kamera.

Immediately above the road leading to Ledenika Cave are the rock formations, called the Tooth, Aleko and the Canine, which are smaller, isolated and considered to be of easier technical demand than others. The central massiff includes the region from the gully for downhill climbing. This edge, which is visible from all corners of the town, emanates from the road and leads up to the narrowest part of the gorge. The vertical rock formations there are imposing, at 380m, and offer some of the most difficult and technically challenging routes upward.

Some of the iconic rock formations are Orlovets, The Mirrors, Second Congress, the Iron Angle and the aptly named, Kurvavata (The Bloody). Those formations offer anything from category I (the easiest) to category VI (the hardest) in difficulty of vertical ascent. The total deviation of the central massif is roughly 550m and the length of the imposing rock face exceeds 800m. Near the Vratsa gorge is the Chaika, which offers very decent camping facilities.

The versatility of the region does not end with mountains, imposing cliffs, forests and caves. Vratsa has another surprise up its sleeve, which makes for a truly unique tourist destination. For the eccentrics, or those seeking a quiet experience by the lake, there is always fishing or swimming. For others, they can settle in the small hotel by the rowing base of the water slalom and water ski club in Skaklya on the river bank of Iskur river and the lake that flanks Levishte village. You may set up camp there because there is a place designated for tents.

Alternatively, you may want to venture into one of the numerous little guest houses. The base offers rowing lessons, you may rent a boat of your own, and if you are proficient enough in rowing and crave a little more adrenaline, you may venture down the river for some unforgeable blood-boiling rafting.

A bonus
Finally, for those who want to dare where eagles dare, the mountain offers excellent conditions for hanggliding and paragliding. Great adrenaline rush, interspersed with mesmerising beauty.

From Okolchitsa peak, at 1600m, there are two platforms for delta gliding and a rocky track designated for paragliding. If you don’t have your own equipment, just ask the locals to direct you to the nearest guesthouse, where English is always spoken and information readily available. The Vratsa mountain range offers rich diversity for sports and recreation, and the only mistake you can make is to commit our mistake: we only had two days available. You can easily spend a fortnight in the region and have a total cracker.