Author's note: this sequence aims to explore and present some of Bulgaria's highest mountains and some of the best routes to get there. You can expect similar reports from Pirin's demanding summits Vihren and Kutelo and the Koncheto Ridge, as well as Vitosha, and Stara Planina. Anyone who has climbed around Bulgaria (or elsewhere) is welcomed and encouraged to comment and share experience or ideas with us. The climbing team: Miroslava 'Puffcho' Doynova, Yordan Kokenov, and Nick Iliev. And occasionally, some other friends. Cheers.

Like any summit, there are several routes in Rila Mountain a climber might consider, but the most popular one starts from the alpine town of Borovets, 80km from Sofia.

Once you are in the centre of Borovets, 1700m high, you may, of course, cheat and attempt climbing the mountain in the fashion of most tourists. Simply take the gondola which will ferry you up to Yastrebets at 2369m, and from there, it’s a three-and-a-half hour climb at an average pace. By doing so, you can scale the summit, have your refreshments up on top and then descend in time to get the gondola back to Borovets and return to your hotel for the evening and a drink down the pub. This would be how "kashkaval turisti" or "cheese tourists" would do it.

Alternatively, you may want to climb the mountain the proper way. A great way to conquer Rila’s Mt Musala, the highest in Southeastern Europe towering at 2925m, is to scale it straight from Borovets, and then once you are on the summit, proceed east to climb three more summits at the ridge itself, Malka Musala ("small" Musala at 2902m), Deno at 2790m and Shatar at 2495m, and then head north/east towards Zavrachitsa ("Twilight"), a mountain lodge about six hours from the summit, and then head back to Borovets, covering a large perimeter, a tab of about 75km in total. This is an arduous and draining tabbing, however, which cannot be completed in a day, so good physical condition, preparation and common sense are essential.

Never underestimate the mountain, especially if you will be up there several days, and make sure you are properly kitted out for the task. You may end up taking a few extra pounds of equipment in your Bergen but they might well just save your life if things go haywire. Better safe than sorry. Firstly, undertaking a two-day hike in the mountains means that you must prepare for every eventuality – carry food for at least three days. Bring winter clothing even in the summer, sweaters, waterproof jackets, wind stoppers and spare wool socks and boots in case your first pair gets sogged with water – change them at the first opportunity unless you want to end up with trench foot – all that is essential.

A gas canister and a kettle so you can make a hot brew, plus a thermos will be your best friends up there. All this should be stored in your Bergen, while your Bergen itself should be covered with waterproof wrap. If you don’t have one, you can improvise with a one by one metre patch of nylon. Remember – a 25kg Bergen on your back will get you tired after six hours on the march. If it starts raining and your backpack gets soaked, it will reach 40kg. This is something best avoided at all cost.

If you think you can handle all that gear, then a collapsible army-type shovel attached to your Bergen is a miracle as well – if you don’t carry a tent or a sleeping bag, you can always dig yourself a hole in the ground and cover yourself with foliage underneath to provide insulation under and over you for cover. You will be cold and most likely wet, but it’s far better insulation than sleeping in the open, exposed to the elements, and it will help preserve your core temperature. Best, carry a sleeping bag. If you are with friends, then carry a tent as well, amalgamating the weight accordingly.

A couple of bodies huddled up in a tent is always warmer than being on your own. Even in the summer, gloves, a hat and a scarf or a shamagh are essential. In the middle of the night temperatures can slump below zero and the early morning dew can be dangerous.