Fri, Feb 10 2012

YEAR IN REVIEW: Eat well

Tue, Dec 30 2008 00:00 CET 1199 Views
YEAR IN REVIEW: Eat well

Kring Health Food Restaurant, Sofia
At the moment Sofia's only hardcore healthfood restaurant, Kring serves up "outlandish" food that could be considered "curious" by some - tempeh, "squeaky-chewy" seitan and bread made of sprouted grains. "A haven" from refined ingredients and no smoking allowed, it somehow "brings in a consistent dinner crowd", despite their "not allowing alcohol" on the premises. Service can be a bit "spaced out", but remains "polite and kind". Fresh veggies galore, and dishes like the croquettes of sprouted lentils with a "fabulous" ginger-sour cream sauce keep you coming back. Desserts like the "deeply chocolate" torte recall "grandma's prowess in the pastry kitchen".

Brasserie,Sofia
A "serene aesthetic haven" that serves up "customary cocktails" like "rose, peach, watermelon and chili" mojitos and freshly squeezed fruit juices, while featuring an "eclectic selection" of cuisine guided by Asia. Portions of dishes like sashimi, quesadilla or bucatini all'Amatriciana are "smallish and artfully presented", with the lunch menu including "a chef's whim of the day". The "best" Caesar salad in Bulgaria comes covered in shaved Grana Padano cheese. "Everything is good," from the "perfectly charred" tuna steak with miso risotto, and daikon and bean sprout salad to the salad of ruccola and sweet potatoes with goat cheese, candied walnuts and grain mustard vinaigrette.

Osteria di Sofia, Sofia
A self-described restaurant for "retro Italian food for connoisseurs", Osteria di Sofia is a bit more "high-brow" than a street-side Italian brasserie. The "flavourful, crisp" pizza is cooked in a wood-burning oven and uses "real" mozzarella and the bruschetta is "as good as in Italy". "Tender" beef and "freshly prepared" fish make tastebuds water, not to mention the cream soup of winter squash (zuppa di zucca) that is good enough to "eat all day". A small selection of wines focuses on Italy, yet the prices have been marked up to be "almost unrecognisable". Music is a "calming, intelligent" mix of jazz and blues. The "inconsistent" service tends to be "kind and hospitable", though "a bit inexperienced" and, on occasion, condescending. The water in a pitcher offered to guests upon arrival is a "surprise" six leva addition to the bill.

Vagabond, Sofia
"Home cooking" in the "positive" sense. Waitstaff know how to "acquit themselves swiftly and well" in the face of a "rapid and continuous" stream of "(sometimes changing) orders". Items like borscht served "in a capacious bowl", shrimps in avocado, pelmeni and steak can lead to making "a mental note to return". Wines are in the category of "reliable and affordable". Drinks and food arrive with "reasonable speed", and there are "compliments all around" for the quality of the food. The "homely and intimate" atmosphere is ideal for "sitting down with friends".

Karibi, Sozopol
Karibi has "maintained a consistently high standard" through the flood of "horrendous constructions" going up on the Black Sea coast in recent years. Pizzas from the "proper" brick oven are "indeed among the best" in Bulgaria. The dining area among the "tall, old trees" by the waterfront is "more stylish" than the pizzeria area. "Polite, attentive" waitstaff in "smart" red shirts do not leave you "waving hopelessly" for attention - good for parties with "ravenous children". Food is "imaginatively combined" and yet "not pretentious" - grilled vegetables with mozzarella and pesto, "hot and crispy" fried squid rings, "wolf's morsels" and "traditional" fish dishes of the region. Live music is "at just the right volume" to allow "normal" conversation.

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