Fri, Feb 10 2012

Brasserie

Fri, May 30 2008 16:00 CET 623 Views
Brasserie

Address: 3 Raiko Daskalov Sq, Sofia
Tel: 980 03 98
Reservation recommended
Open: 9am to late
Sushi Menu: Sunday 7pm - 10pm only.

Away from the bustle of Slaveikov Square, at the quiet Daskalov garden, is an unsuspecting entrance, a portal into a serene aesthetic haven. Within unfolds a stylish and clean setting, a bar with exotic cocktails, and cuisine, so exquisitely delicious.

Brasserie is a restaurant I have visited quite a number of times, and from the very first step inside its tranquil settings, it became my favourite. Every time I visit, I find myself repeating how implausible it is that I am in Bulgaria; the place is just so incredibly designed and gourmet, I feel as if I am in Manhattan, or London or another such simila megacity. Inside every item is orderly, symmetrical; everywhere the eye gazes it is pleased, no irritation in the d?cor. Brasserie's minimalist interior is governed by a charcoal colour, with complementing white tables and chairs. Different accent walls add uniqueness, one of pale wood panelling, another of dark material with symmetrical circular cutouts, stylishly lit from behind, and, the favourite, of empty dark wine bottles perfectly arranged, with the bottoms showing, is also lit from behind at night causing an inventive dark green glow. The back wall is of solid sliding glass, showcasing a peaceful patio walled garden, which in warmer months is lovely for outside dinning, with its wooden floor and furniture. Above the patio are draped beige canopies, which let in sunshine, yet protect us within Brasserie's dream portal, by keeping out most of the external building views.

Commencing with drinks at the bar, you can enjoy the customary cocktails, like Cuban mojitos, classic, rose, peach, watermelon and chili, and my favourite litchi mojito. During summer months, an array of freshly squeezed fruit juices is available. I enjoy the pure blended watermelon. Brasseries' cuisine cannot be narrowed down to one country as it features foods from many: sashimi tuna (Japan), quesadilla (Mexico), bucantini all' Amatriciani (Italy), surprisingly tasty mojito cheesecake with rum sauce (Cuba). But the eclectic selection is lead by Asian cuisine, and the restaurant's head chef is the award winning Jun Yoshida (although he is Bulgarian).

The restaurant boasts three menus, a lunch, a dinner and a Sunday sushi evening, and all are available in perfect English. Prices average seven leva a salad, 10 leva per appetiser, between seven and 26 leva for a main dish, with lunch being on the lower price range, and desserts at about five, and cocktails six. Portion sizes are smallish and artfully presented. The service is generally excellent, though occasionally you may chance a not so attentive server.

The lunch and dinner menus feature the same selection of salads and desserts, though the appetisers and main courses differ. Lunch includes a chef's whim of the day, three pasta dishes, a few sandwiches, including a warm goat cheese with roasted red peppers and pesto on six-grain bread, and a steamed salmon with a risotto of the day.

A modern version of the Bulgarian shopska salad is an interesting sight, because the tomatoes are cut in large circles and the whole thing arrange tower-like, with a unique sauce, but the portion is too miniscule. The Caesar salad is the best I have had in Bulgaria, with crispy lettuce and fresh creamy anchovy dressing, and shaved Grana Padano cheese. A salad of ruccola and sweet potatoes with goat cheese, candied walnuts and grain mustard vinaigrette is an excellent choice. The appetiser of beef carpaccio, with roasted shiitake mushrooms and sambal aioli melts in your mouth, with a pleasantly mysterious sauce. A dinner course of chicken en papillote, sun-dried tomato paste, potato salad and roasted red onion vinaigrette is very flavorful. Beef tenderloin, with potato and blue cheese gratin and Pernod butter, is a mixture of soft and vibrant tastes, a good masculine dish. Perfectly charred tuna steak (raw inside) with miso risotto, and daikon and bean sprout salad, rounds up the most expensive dish, wonderfully. Everything is good; I have not tasted a single item that did not delight me. Every item has delicate yet flavourful characteristics with fresh herbs, and luscious sauces.

Sunday's sushi evening presents the favourites, tuna, salmon, sweet shrimp, kabayaki eel, shiitake, California roll and spicy tuna, along with great miso soup. Yet somehow sake is not on the menu!

Numerous restaurants in Sofia attempt to be stylish, though in comparison to Brasserie, they disappoint, Brasserie is the archetype of high gourmet cuisine, and ultimate style (at least in Bulgaria), to which they should esteem to emulate. No wonder it won the Bacchus-Chivas Regal award two years in a row. I hear that new menu items will be introduced soon; I can't wait to taste these charms.

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