Address: 59b Zahari Zograf Str, Simeonovo district
Tel: 819 30 30 [www.restaurant-boss.com]
Open: every day, 12.00 to midnight

Driving along the upper ring road between Simeonovo and Dragalevtsi, just across from the supermarket Max you will notice the signs for BOSS. After dark there are even laser lights to attract your attention.

If like me, you too have felt a little apprehensive about the big jeeps in the neighbourhood and what clientele you might find hidden behind the name "Boss", let me assure you straight away, you couldn't be further off the mark. It was friends of the owners who assured me that my worries were unfounded by inviting us to the restaurant, so now I would like to do the same for you.

Arriving at the purpose-built restaurant by car, the car park is one of the most generous in town with a friendly attendant who opens the door for you and wishes you a good evening (or as appropriate).

The restaurant itself is also spacious and airy, generously laid out in an L-shape - the smoking and non-smoking sections well separated. The first impression is one of serious business. The interior is dominated by dark wooden tables and dark brown leather armchairs, accented by neutral tones of table linen and tone-on-tone details such as the colours of the walls, blinds, art work and so on. Large windows afford a view to the city below, which is actually only attractive at night when all you see are the city lights and not the surrounding construction.

The name that had caused me so much trepidation was thought to encourage the diner to "feel like the boss" and "dine like the boss" and is part of the slogan printed on the first page of the leather-bound menu.

Having forgotten my reading glasses at home, I initially had a little trouble focusing on the menu. I got the feeling that the lighting level is changing or that I was going crazy.

It turned out that within the central beam across the ceiling there are indeed computer-controlled ambient lights. The colours and speed at which they change can all be programmed and the idea is to have a relaxing effect (I am not sure that I am convinced by this).

Browsing through the rather long menu, one indeed felt tempted by the real treats and delicacies from around the world. It had been a while since I'd had New Zealand lamb chops (29 leva)…

Starting with the salads, I had to opt for one called India priced at 10 leva; I hesitated for a moment only to decide that tiger prawns on a bed of mixed salad leaves must be worth it (and they were)! Our friends opted for more familiar choices such as Caesar salad or ruccola with parmesan and cherry tomatoes. Our hosts both had the Bulgarian salad: tomatoes, cucumber, red onions, goat cheese presented in a novel way - layered. Very attractive! Already the prices of the salads (seven to 14 leva) were an indication that at least a boss' salary might be useful if you wanted to dine here regularly (main courses are 14 to 32 leva).

At this point it must be revealed that the owners behind the restaurant are a couple (he Bulgarian, she German) who have been in the business of importing culinary delicacies from around the world such as tiger pawns from India, sausages from Germany and beef and wine from Argentina, for many years now. (These items can also be bought in the delicatessen shop adjacent the restaurant.) The restaurant, which opened in spring 2007, is a natural progression and it is no surprise to find these products in the menu.

Next for us was duck magret and THE foie gras - lightly toasted and caramelised, served with warm apples slices. At this point already the calorie counter had been thrown out the window and though I found the magret pleasant enough, it was the foie gras I dream of to this day (both in smell and taste)!

For the main course (did I really still need one?) the ladies opted for fish baked in parchment, while the gents' choices included beef steak, tiger prawns and risotto with porcini mushrooms. The fish, halibut fillet, was baked in parchment with capers and cherry tomatoes, the colours making the dish most satisfying also to the eye. The tiger prawns were divine and the risotto was also very tasty. I believe the beef was also very good, although I could no longer sacrifice myself for the sake of this review. All of this was accompanied by a very pleasant Argentinean red wine (but as I was driving, I only had one sip to taste).

The generous layout of the tables and the discreet background music meant that conversation was not an effort and it flowed easily. Although we were sitting in the smoking section, the highly effective ventilation also meant that the non-smokers at our table were not bothered by our smoke or that of adjacent tables.

At this point, I apologise to any readers who love their desserts. Although we were presented with a mini selection of desserts, we were all too full by then to really enjoy anything more.

Likewise I am unable to share with you the cost of the evening as our friends had invited us, but I think it fair to say that Boss is among the upper-end restaurants in Sofia.

Given the overall size of the restaurant and the excellent quality of the food, Boss offers itself as an ideal venue for business functions, wedding receptions or office parties.

It is also worth pointing out that since we have eaten there, the menu has been revised and a new chef is on board, but I imagine that the basics reflected in this review still hold true. Feel free to check it out for yourself, and remember that there is not a thick neck in sight!