Fri, Feb 10 2012
Name: Karine Calcat
Nationality: French
Place of Birth: Tripoli, Libya
Occupation: Communications co-ordinator for the French Institute
In Bulgaria since: 2004
She began working for the French Institute three years ago, and has been involved in many aspects of their extensive programs. The centre is a bustling place of cultural activities including theatre performances, discussions, a French language resource centre and a language programme with about 1000 students. Their goal is to service the entire Francophone community and to promote French culture in Bulgaria, as well as to manage other activities, such as offering help to students wishing to study in France.
Karine sees a growing interest in French language study here in Bulgaria. Historically, French language study focused on culture and works of French literature. Today, however, Karine observes more Bulgarians interested in some of the more practical benefits as well. Bulgarians are able to find jobs in French companies in Bulgaria, and many are keen to study and work in France.
Coming to work in Bulgaria was not only a great chance to get international work experience for this graduate of political science, but a chance to reshape her own personal identity. She happens to be half Bulgarian! Her parents met in English language courses at the British Council in Tripoli, Libya. At that time, her Bulgarian mother was working as a nurse, and her father was part of the French military mission. Shortly after Karine's birth, they went to France, where she grew up on the French Mediterranean coast. Despite her Bulgarian heritage, Karine says that she was definitely a real expat before arriving. For most of her life, she admits to having had a total French identity, with virtually no trace of the Bulgarian side she inherited from her mother. As a child, she recalls knowing only enough Bulgarian to say "Hello Baba!" to her grandmother on the telephone. However, these days, Karine is virtually fluent in Bulgarian, and has rediscovered a hidden part of herself.
Her initial impressions in Bulgaria, as is too often the case, were not overwhelmingly favourable. During her first few weeks, Karine noticed the sour faces around her on the bus during her morning commute. She remembers thinking, "How can people live without smiles?" Also, she recalls a lack of choices in the cuisine, especially cheese. However, not only did Karine get used to the differences, but she has seen many improvements. People smile more than they used to, Sofia's growing restaurant scene offers more choices almost every day, and people are starting to respect and protect the environment more.
Though guilty of making comparisons herself in the beginning, Karine resents visitors that are too critical. "They don't know where Bulgaria started, and how much it has changed right before my eyes!" She has learned to appreciate both the good and the bad, just as she does with her other home, France.
However, there were many aspects of Bulgaria that were immediately familiar to her. The cafe culture and Mediterranean temperament of the Bulgarian people remind her of her hometown on the southern coast of France. Also, sitting at a table for hours with friends over multiple courses and lots of drinks, followed by some dancing, was a tradition she found very easy to get used to and enjoy.
Her experience with young people in Bulgaria fills her with optimism for the future. She is impressed by their level of education, knowledge of foreign languages and their desire to learn about and see the rest of the world. Importantly, Karine sees the youth of Bulgaria beginning to love their own country. The tumultuous period of transition in which they grew up is slowly giving way to a more stable and prosperous view of the future. They are becoming more confident in themselves and have a feeling of being able to make a difference.
An admitted night owl, Karine loves the Sofia nightlife. Though primarily a techno fan, she also enjoys jazz and house clubs. A few of her favourites include Yalta, Swingin' Hall and Backstage. According to her, one of the best things is that the clubs stay open all night. In France, clubs close much earlier, after which there is little choice but to go home. Here, however, you can stay out until the early morning, and it's never a problem to find a taxi home, no matter what time it is.
Karine describes herself as a "girl of the sea", and loves spending time on the Black Sea coast. But instead of the crowded resorts filled with the clamor of endless construction, Karine prefers the calm and natural beauty of some of the untouched beaches one can still find. If you know where to go, there are still great places to camp right on the shore and enjoy a fire under the stars, she admits.
Far to the north past Kaliakra, and a few of the less-developed beaches around Sozopol are some of her personal favourites.
Though style abounds in Sofia, Karine has found that in some cases, function is still required over fashion. In particular, she says she simply cannot wear high heels. Between the cobblestones, the holes and the parked cars that force one to walk on the street, it is simply not worth the risk of injury.
An aspect of life in Sofia Karine finds particularly interesting is her interactions with taxi drivers. "In addition to asking me a lot of questions, taxi drivers always tell me their life stories," she says. It can be a great opportunity to learn about someone that she might not have the chance to meet through work or socially. In many cases, she is surprised to learn that the driver may be a former engineer, musician or other unexpected professional. These short but frequent conversations remind her of how much has changed during the transition period. Her most memorable taxi ride was with an Iraqi driver in Sofia who even refused to accept payment after learning about Karine's French roots.
Karine feels she is currently at a crossroads in her life. She loves Sofia, but feels it may soon be time to satiate her wanderlust once again. "I want to discover new places, but Bulgaria will be my home forever." Even if the call of the unknown draws her away, she knows she will always come back. With a smile she adds, "Every time I get on a plane back to Sofia, I feel as if I'm at home already."
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