Chepishev Restaurant
Address: 27 Ivanitsa Danchev Str
Tel: 959 10 10, 959 12 12
[www.chepishev.com]
Credit cards: yes

Chepishev restaurant is in Boyana, where the air is somewhat cleaner, the streets are somewhat quieter and the view goes a bit beyond the next apartment building. New money is not entirely without taste, at least in terms of real estate. The restaurant is a large building with the name painted on the side. A terrace/balcony on the second floor provides summer seating under several umbrellas, from which you can look out over Sofia. Flower boxes line the wooden railing—a pleasant touch, I suppose, if lifelong allergies have not instilled in you a vicious antipathy towards all blooming things. In the words of Shrek, "Well, I don't like it, but it's pretty."

Inside, the Chepishev is very well decorated: on the left, there are a fireplace and two paintings, as well as windowed cabinets running along the wall from the bar displaying an impressive selection of wines, whisky and other such; the back of the restaurant is a vinoteca holding hundreds of bottles of wine of various vintages; and on the right-hand wall is another fireplace with various animal heads above it, flanked by two mirrors, in front of which small shelves hold an odd assortment of transparent red glassware. The last wall is virtually all windows, but with yet another antique cabinet full of wines and whiskey for good measure. I didn't think to ask if the fireplaces are actually used in the winter (though there was a stack of wood next to one of them) — it would certainly be a nice touch, but in any case it's a moot point for six months at least. The tables are immaculately set, with brilliant yellow napkins folded upright at each seat.

The restaurant was largely empty for Sunday lunch — we arrived at about one, and at the time were the only clients inside, though more came later. In the evenings, however, there is a tendency to fill up, so be sure to make reservations, especially if you eat on Bulgarian time (eight or nine or later, as opposed to the American six). Despite being all in one quite large room, they actually have curtains which can section off parts of it, which I was told was for the non-smoking. If such is the case, colour me impressed — though I was also impressed by the fact that of all the patrons who came before we finished, none of them lit up. A fluke, perhaps, but a pleasant change.

As the weather was starting to turn hot, I decided that it would be the perfect day for a tarator (2.95 leva). And, yes, I know that I talk about the tarator or the snezhanka nearly every place that I go, but in addition to being a personal favourite, it's also something of a benchmark — it's easy to water down some yoghurt, dice a few cucumbers, throw in some dill and wind up with something passable. Doing it really well takes a little more effort, and I find that the places that put in that effort on something so simple generally excel in other areas, as well. This tarator was excellent — very cold, and Goldilocks herself couldn't have been more satisfied with either the amount or the chopping of the walnuts. Mom had an aubergine salad (3.65 leva), and Dad had the Chepishev salad (5.60 leva), a combo salad of several different other types. Mom also ordered the tikvichki pane — a fried, breaded squash dish (6.90 leva) that she describes as the best thing on the menu. It consists of thin, lightly breaded strips of summer squash with a bowl of sauce to dip them in. They were good, if slightly more greasy than the last time. Another nice touch is that the oil on the table is actually olive oil, and good olive oil at that. Most restaurants make you at least ask for it, if not pay extra, but here it's the default. It goes especially well with the soft, freshly baked rolls, which are another drawing point.

For a main course, I selected the pork ribs (15.60 leva). They were ever so slightly greasy for barbeque, but otherwise quite good.

The sauce that came with them (on the side, for dipping), while not exactly what Americans would consider real barbecue sauce, was also quite passable. I picked up an order of steamed vegetables for a side dish (3.90 leva). Dad had a dish called simply chicken with vegetables: one could imagine it resembling stir fry, and was quite appetising and appealingly presented. At 10.50 leva, it was also one of the cheapest main courses on the menu. It being Mother's Day after all, Mom decided to treat herself to the salmon cutlet — a lovely cut of grilled salmon served on a bed of yellow rice. I profess a real weakness for salmon, and this was good salmon.

One usually thinks of salmon as being among the more expensive dishes, however, at 17 leva, it was not anywhere close to the most expensive item on the menu. Prices go on up from there, with at least one dish exceeding 30 leva. That is, of course, the downside to high-class restaurants — they are more expensive. Mother's Day lunch for three came to 79 leva (including drinks but excluding tip) — more than 26 leva a person before the tip and with no dessert. It's good food and good atmosphere, but for us at any rate the price precludes frequent return trips. I should also mention that, according to their website, they offer both catering and delivery services as well.