Kopitoto Complex

Address: Vitosha National Park
Tel: 857 00 00
www.complexkopitoto.com

From just about any point in the city centre of Sofia, you can spot the looming television tower on the northwest side of Mount Vitosha.

And yet, few know that just beyond this landmark, there lies a five-star hotel/restaurant complex situated on the ridge of this horseshoe-shaped section of the mountain. Literally named "the hoof" in Bulgarian, Kopitoto Hotel sits opposite the horseshoe from the tower, on the eastern port, and boasts breathtaking panoramic views of the entire city and all its suburbs.

Perhaps Kopitoto remains the best-kept secret of Vitosha because of its relative inaccessibility for those dependent on public transportation. Located above the Boyana and Knyazhevo Districts, a 30-minute drive up a winding road will take you to the nearly 1350m peak. From Boyana and Knyazhevo, there are well marked and frequently trodden trails for ambitious hikers. Otherwise, there are rumours of a bus and a lift that also leave you near the complex, but on the day we visited, the lift was not in operation and there was no bus to be found, indicating a probable schedule change during winter.

But hoofing your way to "the hoof" is well worth the effort. Unlike the more popular Dragalevtsi and Simeonovo lifts, this area of the mountain offers uninterrupted city views. From the airport to the outlying neighbourhoods, through old Sofia and all its recent expansions, the saavy Sofian will be able to trace paths to favourite destinations. Naturalists can differentiate and name all the surrounding mountain ranges and peaks and better understand mountain-related weather phenomena, like wind patterns in Sofia.

Established circa 2000, Kopitoto Hotel is modern, fresh and simple in design. The entrance way, accessible through a revolving door, is bright and airy with shiny, tiled floors. Along the windows of the lobby are nooks of sofas and tables, perfect for cozy conversations. On another, somewhat higher level sits the restaurant with a more formal atmosphere.

The hotel accommodates tourists and business meetings alike. The three conference halls are equipped with basic presentation technology and are modern in their appearance. Upon request, the kitchen staff will prepare special homemade meals for long seminars. Besides the obvious outdoor sports of hiking and skiing (should there be enough snow), the hotel offers a fitness hall, massage room, and an indoor swimming pool, sauna and solarium for recreational activities.

Being rated a five-star hotel, the rooms are somewhat varied and quite pricey. A basic room will cost about 120 euro, with the penthouse and the presidential flat costing between 250 and 300 euro per night.

For those looking to simply spend a day sightseeing and hiking, the hotel staff is amenable and accommodating, displaying remarkable customer service. Guests and non-guests alike are free to wander the grounds and paths around the complex. On a cold winter day (such as the day we visited), the wait staff may invite you inside for warmth, drinks and food, but will not pressure you into spending loads of leva just for the privilege of using the facilities. We ordered tea, coffee and cognac, sat in the restaurant for a good deal of time pointing out sites and enjoying each other's company. The service was attentive, though not overbearing, and the atmosphere classy, yet relaxed.

During warmer months, there are tables and chairs set up on the various terraces where a hiker needing respite can order a meal or just drinks. During the winter, there is seating available indoors either at Kopitoto's restaurant or the hotel lobby. For more panoramic views, choose to sit in the restaurant near the floor-to-ceiling windows. From here, it is also possible to spot airplanes in the distance and follow their all too familiar route along the city, to the low-lying mountains, make a sharp U-turn, and descend to the runway - a route to which any traveller who has flown into Sofia can relate.

Perhaps not quite as exploited as other skiing mountains in the country, Vitosha has difficulties maintaining its reputation as a preserved national park, as it was so-established in 1934. With lodges and hotels popping up around the mountain, it will not be long before little of the area remains protected in its most natural form. That said, the unassuming architectural design and integration into the surrounding natural environments makes it hard to fault Kopitoto's existence at the expense of a small patch of forest.

Regardless of environmental ideology, it is indisputable that without mass transit and easy accessibility, this horseshoe-shaped, little sister of the grander, more popular side of Vitosha remains clean, pristine, and nearly untouched. Bored with the tired, littered trails on the other side, on this day, we opted for this path less travelled. And it made all the difference. Our love affair with Vitosha is now restored.