Address: 3a Totleben Blvd in the building of Hotel Shipka
Tel.: 954 1234
www.barbados-bg.com
Opening hours: Midday - Midnight

We wanted fish. We craved fish. We missed fish. But we weren't brave enough to cook fish in Bulgaria.  Accustomed to a life of papaya-lined swordfish, strawberry-infused sushi and copper river salmon, we were starving for seafood.  Because not only is fish light and flavourful, but it's loaded with Omega 3 oils which are, according to just about everyone, essential to good health.  So my upcoming dinner was punctuated with exclamation marks in my planner. We were ready to go.

Barbados. . .you know it's an island, right?  Perhaps one you heard about in conversation when your sister-in-law was talking about her cruise last autumn?  Exactly.  This tropical paradise is the eastern-most Caribbean island, part of what's called the Lesser Antilles, located just south of St. Lucia and west of Grenada.  Less than a million years old, the land mass was actually created by the collision of the Atlantic and Caribbean crustal plates. Barbados is known for spicy foods and fabulous fish.  But when I perused the Barbados menu before my visit, I felt as if perhaps they'd created their own country cocktail, including selections from Italy, Spain and even Great Britain. With fish and chips, canelloni a la Siciliana and octopus Spanish style all on the same page, I was confused. But I eventually came around.  Rather than imitate one country's cuisine, why not make seafood your focal point, drawing on fish dishes from around the globe?

First, I must give the restaurant snaps for its far-from-the-traffic terrace, a blur of wicker, turquoise and shells which makes the patron feel as if they'd been whisked off to Majorca.  However, the cool weather squashed my Mediterranean fantasy as we were forced to troop by the outdoor tables and into the restaurant's interior.  Mental Note: Summer makes everything better.

In the first five feet, we were greeted by a buffet  full of fresh, silver fish, their cold eyes seeming to shift between the menacing octopus, just inches away and our hungry faces.  Then we wandered around, taking note of the inviting bar and tables occupied with content, engaged-in-conversation customers, until someone realised we hadn't been seated.  Soon, we sat with clean white linens, large water glasses and a cushioned seat. Nice.

At first blush, the restaurant bloomed with quality.  There were pastel ceiling panels with starfish and clams above me, tasteful, turquoise, photographic murals of the deep sea on my left. The music was low and gave no hint of Chalga or hip-hop.  The temperature was perfect.  Unfortunately, the restaurant's high lights seemed to stilt any atmosphere that their candle-lit terrace, in the right season, surely provides.

But then we were showered with attention.  And this always helps.  Our shy, but eager-to-please waiter spoke little, but enough English, and appreciated my attempts at Bulgarian.  Whether clearing plates, topping off wine glasses or pausing to catch our eye,  the service was impressive.  What I remember most is that he allowed me to taste the wine, since I chose the wine, a Maxima from Rousse. Big points. We even ordered a second bottle.

Round Number One: My Caesar salad's salmon and anchovy was fine, but the shredded iceberg lettuce, dressing and presentation was cafeteria quality.  Mussels in balsamic vinaigrette was typical and tasty.  The Caprese salad, while lovely to look at, is not recommended.  The mozzarella's texture and taste simply wasn't fresh.  But the calamari was a table favourite: breaded, soft and sumptuous, with creamy aioli for dipping.

Round Number Two: We knew paella was a risk since this was no Spanish hacienda.  But we went for it and this famous concoction of rice, meat, fish and vegetables, typically stewed for several hours, if not days, with a blend of broths, turned out a bit heavy and not so traditional, but nevertheless, tasty and rich with saffron.  We loved it.  My husband's grilled seabass was modest, moist and fresh, and carefully removed from the bone as we watched.  Sadly, the shrimp cocktail contained lettuce of the aforementioned cafeteria variety with a few small tasteless shrimps and a garnish of canned pineapple.  Enough said.   

Would I return to Barbados?  It's not my new favourite, but if I'm craving grilled fish, calamari and superior service and it's a warm summer night, you just might find me in a sundress, pretending I was somewhere besides our own beach-free, Bulgarian capital.