A melodramatic love story set in a railway station, where Vera, a waitress, and Platon, a pianist, first meet, is the premise for the Russian classic "Railway Station for Two," directed by Eldar Ryazanov. It was also the inspiration for two Bulgarian actresses to establish the most delightful Russian restaurant, just a half block away from Dundukov and Rakovski Street. Gara Za Dvama stands out from all other restaurants I have been to in Sofia, not because of its creative decor, nor its delicious food, but because nowhere on the menu could I find shopska salad or any other Bulgarian dish!

When I entered the restaurant, I was immediately taken aback by the interior design. I literally felt as if I were standing in a train car. There were four booths or "kufe" (compartments), two of which could seat about eight to nine people, though the other two could only fit no more than four or five. Kufe number 8, our table, was lined with vinyl green seats, each erratically numbered. My seat, number 17, was situated next to the pale green wall, which was indented to appear as a window, where a black and white photo of a shopkeeper peering out from his store, was plastered within. In the background, contemporary Russian music played, which wasn't all that enjoyable, but is a pleasurable alternative to the typical techno.

In Bulgarian as well as English, the menu offers a diverse selection, ranging from the most delicious salads, cold fish appetisers such as caviar, meat dishes such as boiled tongue, and soups like borscht, to popular national dishes including pyroshki and pelmeni. The prices range fairly high from 2.50 to four leva for salads; and main dishes between four and 15 leva. Be careful when you order to be sure you know exactly how much you are paying, and not make the mistake of ordering the 69 leva black caviar if you would be satisfied with the red which is only 18.

Accompanied by five other friends, we were a motley group ourselves, due to the multiple nationalities represented, as well as the fact that half of us are vegetarians. Three of my companions had been to Gara Za Dvama on several occasions and rate it as one of their favorite restaurants in Sofia. Between the six of us, we ordered several salads: "Carrots Otherwise" (grated carrots with garlic and coriander), "Delicious Garden Radish in Sourcream," Pickled Mushroom," and the "Vinagret" (beetroot, gher-kins, potatoes and more). These were all incredibly tasty, especially the carrots! Unfortunately, beyond the salads, there is a limited selection of vegetarian cuisine, therefore a couple bowls of vegetarian borscht (3.80 leva) were ordered and several of the piroshky (1.20 leva each). I shared the "Tsipliate Tabaka," chicken flattened and grilled with garlic and served with a spicy Georgian sauce (12.50 leva), a Gara Za Dvama speciality. It was delicious! This is saying something since, after 30 plus years of (typically strict) vegetarianism, one of my companions tasted the dish, and was so pleased, that after asking all of us to pretend we never saw her, took an entire leg and devoured it. This place is really that good, which is why I encourage people to make reservations since the restaurant easily fills up.

The service was amicable, the ambience was charming, and though the prices were fairly steep for Sofia standards, the experience was worth it. The authenticity of both the cuisine and environment enhanced the experience. One of my dinner companions, who was raised in Moldova, is especially fond of the restaurant. I believe this is due to the delicious food, as well as the detail which went in to the decor. There were even genuine (or so they appeared) Russian train tea cups found on the tables.

This was my first experience with Russian food, because I have always been scared to try it. Back home (in the US), it always seemed to smell unappetising and the restaurants for some reason, never appealed to me. Gara Za Dvama has eliminated any bad thoughts I once held about Russian cuisine. Let your sense of curiosity get the best of you, and give it a try. You'll be especially pleased with the end result!



Address:

18, Benkovski Street

Telephone:

989 76 75